SWEET PEAS 
UP-TO-DATE 




BURPEE'S FIERY CROSS 
SWEET PEA 



PUBLISHED IN 1917 BY 

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. 

SEED GROWERS 
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA 



SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE 

ByG. W. KERR 




Countess Spencer Sweet Pea. 

Grown by James W. Nairn, Truro, Nova Scotia, who sends the chatming 

photograph from which this engraving has been reproduced. 



SWEET PEAS 
UP-TO-DATE 

WITH A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION 
OF ALL KNOWN VARIETIES, IN- 
CLUDING NOVELTIES FOR 1917 

By Gh^' KERR 




PUBLISHED IN I9I7 BY 

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. 

SEED GROWERS, PHILADELPHIA 



S-BA'i^ 






Copyright, 1910, 1914, 1916, and 1917, by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 

Philadelphia, Pa. 

All rights reserved 



M 27 1917 

©C1.A455335 



PREFACE 

We were well pleased with the reception accorded our re- 
vised edition of Sweet Peas Up-To-Date when published 
in 19 lo, but since the list of varieties contained therein 
was compiled so great has been the interest of hybridizers 
and specialists in this beautiful flower, that new varieties 
have been offered the public in bewildering numbers, 
with the result that to keep our book really "up-to-date'' 
we feel that it is necessary to publish this new edition. 

Sweet Peas are a great specialty with us, neither 
time nor money being spared in our endeavors to test 
and try out all novelties as they are offered by European 
and other Sweet Pea specialists. Our Sweet Pea trials 
at Fordhook Farms in 1913 numbered 1133, many of 
these being duplicated on Burpee's Floradale Farm in 
California. We are thus enabled to fmd out for our- 
selves just which varieties are worthy of perpetuating 
and offering to our customers and friends. 

We have— at Fordhook — for the past eight years 
been hybridizing the original winter-flowering varieties, 
viz.: Burpee's Earliest of All (Christmas Pink), Burpee's 
Earliest Sunbeams, Burpee's Earliest White, Burpee's 
Re-selected Earliest of All, and Yarrawa, with the finest 
varieties of Spencers, with a view to evolving a new race 
of early or winter-flowering Spencers, and we are now 
able to say that we have accomplished this even beyond 
our most sanguine expectations, as we have now winter- 
flowering Spencers in many exquisite colors, a number of 
which we are offering this season; others will be intro- 
duced as we work up sufficient "trued" stocks. We 
anticipate that in the near future we will have this in- 
valuable type to ofl'er in all the colors now found in the 
summer-fiowering varieties. 

W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 

Fordhook Farms, December 1 1, 191 6, 



INTRODUCTION 

"The Sweet Pea has a keel that was meant to seek all 
shores; it has wings that were meant to fly across all 
continents; it has a standard which is friendly to all 
nations; and it has a fragrance like the universal Gos- 
pel : yea, a sweet prophecy of welcome everywhere that 
has been abundantly fulfilled/' 

So said the Rev. W. T. Hutchins, the well-known 
Sweet Pea enthusiast, when attending the Sweet Pea 
Bi-centenary Celebration in London in 1900; and his 
words sound almost like a prophecy — a prophecy that 
has indeed been abundantly fulfilled. 

As far as we can learn the Sweet Pea is a native 
of Sicily, and we read that in 1699 Franciscus Cupani, 
an Italian monk, sent seeds to England, and so was 
begun the culture of Sweet Peas. 

Although there were several distinct colors in cul- 
tivation, no great advancement was made until the 
late Henry Eckford, of Wem, Shropshire, England, 
in 1870 started his great life work on Sweet Peas. 
Since then the development of this lovely and fragrant 
flower has been one of the floral wonders of the age. 

The late Thomas Laxton, of Bedford, England, also 
worked on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, starting 
in 1877. His Invincible Carmine was certificated in 
1883, being the first recorded result of cross-fertilization, 
and since then many florists have assisted in carrying 
on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, America being 
to the front as usual, many charming and refined va- 
rieties being distributed by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 
and other American seedsmen, and quite three-fourths 

6 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



of the Sweet Pea seed used each year all over the world 
is grown in this country. 

Had any one sixteen years ago said that the Sweet 
Pea would become within the next few years the most 
popular flower of the day, he would have been laughed 
at, and yet this has now become an accomplished fact. 

I can well remember when the first "Sweet Pea 
Show" in England was planned (that was in 1900). 
Although 1 was a great admirer of the Sweet Pea and 
had seen and grown all the new varieties as they were 
introduced, 1 simply laughed at the idea of holding a 
show of Sweet Peas alone — and 1 was only a unit among 
the many scoffers at the project. But, thanks to those 
at the helm, the first show at the Crystal Palace, London, 
was held, and turned out to be such a success that since 
that year the Sweet Pea Society has held its annual 
Show, and now the National Sweet Pea Society is among 
the most flourishing of the "one flower" societies; and 
it is impossible to describe to those who have not at- 
tended any of their exhibitions the enthusiasm which 
prevails among the exhibitors, the immensity of the 
Show and the exquisite exhibits from the trade growers: 
flowers of the largest size with stems eighteen inches to 
two feet long, the long lines of decorated tables, and, 
last but not least, the novelties. Of course, the novel- 
ties are not all gQms of the first water, but no Show 
passes without some great improvement in color or 
form appearing. The Aquarium Show of 1901 will 
long be remembered, as it was there that Silas Cole, of 
Althorp Gardens, Northampton, first exhibited his 
glorious "Countess Spencer," which was three years 
later introduced by the late Mr. Robert Sydenham, 
of Birmingham. The ''Countess Spencer" was such 

7 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



an improvement in size and of a form so distinctly new, 
the immense standard and wings being beautifully 
frilled and waved, that it created a perfect sensation 
at the Show, but since the advent of its introduction in 
1904 the new waved or orchid-flowered varieties have 
been added to considerably, these being either sports 
from the popular Countess Spencer, or the results of 
the careful hybridist. 

The first "Spencer" sports to appear were John 
Ingman and Helen Lewis, followed by Mrs. Charles 
Foster and Mrs. Charles Mander. Since then many 
new colors have been evolved, a list of which is given 
on pages 45 to 72. 

About the time that Mr. Cole brought out Countess 
Spencer the same variety was found as a sport in that 
fine old grandiflora variety, Prima Donna, by Mr. Viner, 
of Frome, Somerset, and W. J. Unwin, of Histon, Cam- 
bridge, also found a sport in Prima Donna, and this he 
called Gladys Unwin. It is also of the wavy type and 
of much the same shade of pink as Countess Spencer, 
but the flowers do not come quite so large. 

I must also chronicle the advent of the Early or 
Winter-flowering Spencer Sweet Pea. The American 
varieties of this new type are all the result of careful 
crosses, but some four or five years ago the great Aus- 
tralian variety, Yarrawa, appeared in that country as a 
direct mutation or sport from a summer flowering Spen- 
cer. This is a most valuable race, especially for Winter 
forcing under glass, though' it is also useful for winter 
and spring flowering in the open in all frostless countries, 
and at least a few of them should be included in all 
Sweet Pea collections, even in our Northern States, to 
prolong the flowering season. 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



The merest novice in gardening realizes that the 
Sweet Pea is the most popular annual now cultivated, 
and this is not to be wondered at when we consider 
all its qualities: first, there is the primary question of 
cost, when for a few cents we can have a row right 
around our garden or clumps among our shrubs — and 
what other flower will give us such glorious results so 
cheaply? Then, as to cultivation. The Sweet Pea 
will succeed in practically any good garden soil, though 
extra cultivation will well repay the grower. And, 
again, what flower gives us such a multitude of ex- 
quisite colors and shades of colors combined with such 
delicate and thrilling fragrance as our "Queen of All 
Annuals"— the regal Sweet Pea? And yet another 
great quality in its favor is that the more flowers you 
cut from the vines, the longer and more continuously 
will the plants continue to bloom. 1 n fact, by not allow- 
ing any seed pods to set, followed up with high-class 
cultivation. Sweet Peas will continue to flower for quite 
three months, and in some locations even longer. 

I would draw the attention of all Sweet Pea lovers 
to the claims of the American Sweet Pea Society, which 
was organized July 7, 1909. 

This society has held a most successful exhibition 
and convention each year since its organization and a 
number of interesting and instructive bulletins have 
been issued to all its members. 

Full information regarding the society may be had 
from W. Atlee Burpee & Company. 

To those who are unacquainted with the different 
varieties 1 would specially recommend the collections 
put up by W. Atlee Burpee & Co., and offered at very 
moderate prices. For instance you can have a large 

9 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



packet each of six first-class sorts for 25 cents, — thirteen 
varieties for 50 cents. While the dollar-box collection 
of finest Spencer varieties is great value. Full partic- 
ulars of the above will be found in the current year's 
" Burpee's Annual," copy of which will gladly be sent 
on application. 

G. W. Kerr. 

Fordhook Farms, November 22, 1917. 



10 



SOIL AND PREPARATION 

Any ordinary garden soil will suit Sweet Peas, pro- 
vided the following points are observed : 

First. The ground should be drained or the soil 
be of such a nature that in a season of excessive rains 
the water will not lie and so cause the roots to rot, 
or start mildew among the plants. 

Second. The seeds should be sown in such a 
position that no excessive shade shall interfere with 
the sturdy growth of the vines, as too much shade 
encourages a spindly and weak vine, with few, if any, 
flowers. You should choose, therefore, a spot in your 
garden right in the open, where your plants may have 
all the available light and air, though a little shade 
from the scorching mid-day suns of June and July 
will be found most beneficial. 

Soils cultivated and prepared as for your vegetable 
plot will give fair results, but for this, the Queen of 
all our annual plants, a little extra care and selection 
of soil will be well repaid by the additional size of 
flower, longer stems, better color, and prolonged period 
of blooming. 

Whatever may be the composition of your soil, 
a start should be made in the fall of the year by trench- 
ing it to a depth of from two to three feet. Should 
the subsoil be poor, it would be absurd to bring it to 
the surface, but it should be broken up, turned over, 
and mixed with any old garden refuse or stable litter. 
Thoroughly mix with the second spit a liberal quantity 
of half decayed stable or cow manure — the latter for 

II 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



preference if the soil is light — adding a good dressing 
of bone meal as the work proceeds. The top spit should 
be filled in as rough as possible (at the same time mix- 
ing with the soil thoroughly rotted manure) and left so 
all winter, that the frost, snow, and rain may have a 
better chance of exerting their mellowing influences 
upon the soil. Should the under spits be very light, 
I would recommend that it should be taken out of the 
trench and replaced with soil of heavier substance. 

If the land is very heavy, with a clay subsoil, long 
stable litter and rough material from the garden rub- 
bish heap should be incorporated with the subsoil which 
is broken up, as this will help materially to drain and 
sweeten the trench, and farm-yard manure, road sweep- 
ings, and wood ashes will help to lighten the top spits, 
adding bone meal as recommended above. 

While on the subject of trenching, we ought to ex- 
plain that where the Sweet Peas are to be planted in 
rows the trench should be taken out at least two feet 
wide and the rows should be five feet apart. 

As soon as the frost is out of the ground in early 
spring and the soil is in a nice, dry condition, the rows 
should have a fairly heavy coating of superphosphate 
of lime (acid phosphate), which can be forked or raked 
into the soil and all made ready for planting. Care 
should be taken that the soil is not too loose, as in this 
condition it would be apt to dry up quickly during the 
summer; therefore, if it is loose and open, get it con- 
solidated by forking and treading, but do not attempt 
to work the trench until it is quite dry. 

Soils deficient in lime will be greatly benefited by a 
good dusting of fresh lime put on in the early spring, 
using it as soon as slaked. On ground that has been 

12 



SOWING AND PLANTING 



heavily manured for some years this application will be 
found most beneficial, as it combines with the organic 
matter contained therein, thereby setting free much 
plant food that was not previously available to the 
crops. 

Where it has been found impossible to trench the 
ground in the fall, this operation should be commenced 
as early as possible in the spring, but in this case only 
old, well-decomposed manure should be utilized, using 
bone meal and superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate) 
as recommended above. 

SOWING AND PLANTING 

To those who want the very best results we say sow 
your Sweet Pea seeds in pots. This should be done in 
January or February, according to location, using pots 
of three and one-half or four inches diameter. A 
suitable compost for this consists of turfy loam, leaf 
soil, and a little sand, all thoroughly mixed. A little 
of the roughest of the turf should be placed on top of 
the crocks to insure perfect drainage, afterwards filling 
the pot to within an inch and a half of the top. Then 
put in an inch layer of sharp sand into which the seed 
should be sunk half an inch, the use of the sand being 
to prevent the seed rotting ere germinating, as many 
seed so often do when sown in heavier soil. Four seeds 
will be quite sufficient for each pot, making all firm and 
labeling each variety as it is sown. The pots should then 
be placed in a frame or cool greenhouse as near the 
light as possible, so that the growth will be kept sturdy 
and dwarf. The frame or greenhouse bench on which 
the pots are to stand should be thoroughly cleaned and 

13 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



afterwards given a thorough dusting of soot or lime to 
kill all insects, or keep them at bay. When the young 
vines are two or three inches tall, insert a few twigs in 
the pots to keep them in an upright position. 

After the first thorough soaking to settle soil and 
seeds, great care should be taken not to overdo the 
subsequent waterings, as in the event of sharp frosts, 
should the Peas be in an unheated structure, there 
is always the danger of the young plants getting frosted. 
In severe weather the careful grower will always see 
that the frame is covered and protected from night 
frosts. 

When the young plants are well through the soil, 
air should be given on all favorable occasions, and if 
the plants have been started in heat they should be 
now removed to a cold frame. As spring advances 
the sashes should be entirely removed during the 
brightest part of the day, keeping them off night and 
day as "planting out time" approaches. According 
to locality and weather conditions prevailing at the 
time, the young plants should be put out from early 
March to early May. 

One pot will be found sufficient to form a good 
clump, and some growers favor this method of growing 
Sweet Peas — the ground for the clump having been 
prepared by taking out the soil to a depth of about 
three feet by three feet and preparing it as before ex- 
plained for the row system. 

When planting in rows each potful should be planted 

about eighteen inches apart in the row. Place the 

entire ball of soil with plants and twigs — taking care 

to keep all intact with the exception of loosening the 

14 



SOWING OUT OF DOORS 



mass of roots at the base — in the hole previously pre- 
pared for its reception. If the plants are well watered 
the day before planting, the ball of soil will be more 
likely to remain entire when knocked out of the pot. 
Should the weather be very dry at the time of planting, 
it may be found advisable to give the newly trans- 
planted vines a thorough watering, and this will like- 
wi^se help to settle the soil about the roots. 

A good ring of soot (which should be collected dur- 
ing the season from the stove-pipe) put on the soil 
round the plants will now be of the greatest possible 
benefit in warding oflF insects, and even a slight dusting 
of the same material over the young vines has been 
used also to advantage. 

SOWING OUT OF DOORS 
Those who have not the conveniences — or, perchance, 
think it too much trouble — for the pot method of 
Sweet Pea culture should sow the seeds as early in the 
Spring as soil and weather conditions will allow. 
Whether the ground has been prepared as advised in 
a previous chapter or simply dug over one spit deep, 
the procedure is the same. 

A small trench or furrow about four inches deep 
should be taken out and the seed sown evenly, using 
about one ounce of seed to a fifteen-foot row, — covering 
with two inches of soil. After covering make the sur- 
face soil fairly firm and finish all by putting a good 
dusting of soot along the row, as this will keep away 
birds and insects. 

When the seedlings are about two inches high, thin 
out the young plants, leaving one to every six inches, 
as this will be found quite sufficient to give you a good, 

15 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



thrifty row, allowing the air and light to circulate 
freely among the growing vines, giving more room to 
the gross feeding and deep searching roots, the natural 
results being larger flowers, longer stems, better color, 
and more flowers. As the young vines grow, the soil 
should be hoed up to them on either side, thus strength- 
ening the plants and keeping them in an upright posi- 
tion, while the slight trench thus made on either side of 
the row is of great benefit when watering the plants dur- 
ing a dry spell, or, on the other hand, it acts as a natural 
drain in carrying off the superfluous moisture during a 
very wet period. The rows should be staked now, as 
it is of great importance that the young vines be sup- 
ported from their earliest stage, but this will be dealt 
with in a subsequent paragraph. 

FALL SOWING 
While we are on the subject of sowing, it would be in- 
complete were we not to mention Fall sowing. For 
early bloom Fall or Autumn sowing is to be recom- 
mended if your location is suitable. This method 
is largely carried out in many parts of England with 
best results. In the Southern States this operation 
may be done towards the end of September and during 
October, while for this locality (Philadelphia) we have 
proved that November and early December sowings 
give the most satisfactory results. Our experiments at 
FoRDHOOK Farms have shown that Sweet Peas sown in 
early October made growth about three inches tall 
before severe weather set in, and that subsequently the 
plants were frozen out, while seed sown in November 
and early December just started to germinate before 
frost, and as there were no top growths to freeze, with- 

i6 



FALL SOWING 



Stood the Winter and started away strongly with the 
first mild weather in March, the earlier varieties show- 
ing flower on May 15th, while the ordinary varieties of 
grandiflora and Spencer types were in full bloom early 
in June. 

These experiments in Fall sowing seem to show 
us that we ought to aim at sowing the seed at as late 
a date as possible, that the seed may just germinate 
previous to frost, thereafter lying dormant all Winter 
and so be ready to take advantage of the earliest mild 
days of Spring, long before we could get on the ground 
to make early plantings. Give the rows a mulch of 
strawy litter or hay as soon as the ground freezes hard, 
removing it early in March. 

The advantages of Fall sowings are early flowering 
and, on account of slower top growth in the early stages, 
a much stronger root growth which will carry the plants 
safely through periods of drought and so secure an ex- 
tended flowering season. 

Another, and perhaps the best, method for fall sow- 
ing in this locality, or in fact any section where periods 
of severe frost may be expected during the winter 
months, is to use what I call the Sweet Pea frame. 

Boards six to nine inches wide are placed on edge 
lengthways, eight or nine inches apart along either side 
of the row of Sweet Peas, holding them together with 
small braces of wood and make ends tight with a piece 
of board to fit the opening, as shown in the accompany- 
ing illustration. Glass is laid along the top of the frame, 
and may be fastened with string to hold it in position, 
or special slots made in the boards into which the glass 
fits. 

When using this frame the seed should be sown about 
17 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 





When the soil freezes solidly cover the rows with coarse manure or 
litter as shown in the above photograph taken at Fordhook Farms late 
in December. 




Another method of protecting fall sown Sweet Peas and one which 
will give the planter earlier flowers. 



STAKING AND TRELLISING 



six weeks before severe freezing weather may be ex- 
pected. In this section where this method is used the 
correct date would be the middle of October. 

Do not place the glass over the frame until severe 
weather sets in or during periods of heavy rains. Pre- 
vious to frost the seeds will have germinated and the 
seedlings be well above the ground, and they should 
have all the air possible to harden and strengthen their 
growth. 

Should the weather be extremely severe it may be 
well to cover the frame with burlap or litter, but if 
there should have been a heavy fall of snow the snow 
covering will be ample protection. 

Remove the glass during the first mild days of Spring, 
and in the course of a week or two the frame also, though 
the boards will be a protection against cold winds. 

The frame may then be used to cover early sowings 
of lettuce, beans, etc. 

STAKING AND TRELLISING 
A great diversity of opinion prevails over the ques- 
tion of the most suitable material for staking Sweet 
Pea vines. According to the National Sweet Pea 
Annual for 1907, the opinions of fifty-two experts 
were asked, forty-seven of the number voting for sticks, 
most of them regarding hazel brush as being the best. 
My own opinion on the matter is strongly in favor of 
good twiggy boughs cut in the late winter or early 
spring, that they may be on the green side and so tough 
enough to last the season. If boughs are used, they 
ought to be inserted at least one foot in the soil with the 
tops inclining, if anything, a little outwards: i. e., the 

19 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



tops of the boughs should not meet, as it is at this part 
that so much space is wanted when the Peas are in full 
growth, therefore by inclining your sticks outwards it 
leaves room for all top growth and tends to keep your 
vines in an upright position. Should your sticks not 
be twiggy at the bottom, it will be found desirable to 
insert a few short boughs between the taller sticks 
wherever necessary. 

Now although we might all wish to stake our Sweet 
Peas with boughs, in the majority of cases this is an 
impossibility through our inability to procure them: 
therefore, the question of the next best substitute 
arises, and this is to be found in wire netting of four- 
or six-inch mesh. The initial cost of this material is 
certainly a drawback where a large area of Sweet Peas 
is grown, but it will be found the cheapest in the long 
run, lasting as it does for many years. Netting four 
to six feet wide will be found sufficient for this locality, 
but in cooler sections where the Sweet Pea vines flourish 
as they do in our extreme Northern States, Canada, 
and England, this width may have to be doubled. 
Stakes to support the wire netting will have to be used, 
driving these twelve or eighteen inches into the ground. 
Some growers use only one row of wire netting, but we 
believe in the double row, say twelve inches apart. 
Another method is the use of soft, light jute twine. In 
this case stout stakes are used, driving one into the 
ground every five feet down the rows on either side of 
the Peas, then running the twine from stake to stake, 
commencing a few inches from the ground with six 
inches between each length. This will be found a most 
economical method of staking your Peas, though not 
so satisfactory as boughs or wire netting. 

20 



STAKING AND TRELLISING 



The Rev. W. T. Hutchins' advice on staking, as 
given in one of our former publications, is also of in- 
terest on this important point in Sweet Pea culture, and 
we append the following extracts: 

"There are all degrees of success in growing Sweet 
Peas, and the answer to the question of what kind of 
support to give them depends largely on how thrifty 
your vines are. 1 expect my own vines to make a 
strong growth, at least six feet high, and, besides the 
matter of height, it is quite evident that such a weight 
of vines when wet, and when the strain of a gust of 
wind comes broadside on them, will require a very 
strong support. If you care for only moderate success, 
smaller bushes or four-foot poultry wire may be suf- 
ficient. If your soil has neither depth nor riches and 
you provide a six-foot hedge of birch, your bushes will 
be more conspicuous than your Sweet Peas. Or, if 
you neglect your vines and let them go to seed, they 
will dry up when two-thirds grown. Or, if you plant 
them too thickly, they will make a spindling and 
shorter growth. You are the one to decide whether 
you want a four-foot or a six-foot support. 

"Then, if you ask what to make the support of, 
judging from most people, you will use that which 
comes most convenient. 

"Here are the points to be considered in a support 
for Sweet Peas. Grow them at their best, and provide 
for both height and strength, then allow for their loose 
branching habit, and give them width enough to ramble. 
I use birches entirely. They are brought to me in 
twelve or fourteen foot lengths, just as cut from the 
patch, and from each I get one good stout one seven 
feet high, and the lighter top is used to fill in. 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



"They are less unsightly if the tops are clipped to 
an even six-foot level and the sides are trimmed suf- 
ficiently to present a neat view from the end. These 
twiggy birches are a more natural support, and in the 
scorching sun do not heat as wire will. Of course, 
birches last but one year, and should be procured early 
in the spring, before their leaves start. Make ashes 
of them in the fall. 

"There is no limit to the style of trellis that can 
be made, and they should be so made as to take apart 
easily for storing away in the winter. By painting 
the ground end of the posts or uprights with asphaltum 
they will last longer. The printed designs are mere 
suggestions of what can be made cheaply (see page 96). 

"Keep your vines green and growing as long as you 
can. Good rich ground and keeping the pods off will 
do this." 



CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING 
The liberal use of the hoe between the rows and plants 
will be found of great service in conserving moisture 
and, of course, at the same time keeping down the 
weeds. Should the weather set in very dry and hot, 
a liberal mulching of manure or grass should be given, 
extending quite twelve inches on either side of the 
plants, and a thorough watering two or three times a 
week will keep your seedlings on the move. No liquid 
manure should be applied, however, until the first blos- 
soms appear, and then only sparingly — or rather in a 
weak state — at first, alternating the waterings with 
clear water. As the plants come into full flower the 
manure may be made much stronger. 



CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING 



Now, as to the kind of manure to apply. We 
know that growers of experience have their own pet 
manures and mixtures, but the following may all be 
relied upon. One of the least expensive, and one which 
at the same time almost serves a double purpose by both 
feeding the plant and acting as an insecticide, is soot. 
Place about a peck of soot in a bag and let it dissolve 
for a few hours in an old tub or barrel filled with water. 
Guano may be used in the proportion of one pound to 
twenty gallons of water; or sulphate of potash, one 
ounce to one gallon of water. Farmyard liquid manure, 
used about the color of weak tea, is also of service; 
acid phosphate or superphosphate of lime, used as a 
liquid, dissolving at the rate of half an ounce to one 
gallon of water. Also sulphate of potash, used in con- 
junction and at the same rate, will help the plants con- 
siderably. The majority of growers consider the use of 
nitrate of soda dangerous to the well-being of Sweet 
Peas, though 1 believe there are times when it may be 
used to advantage; for instance, if the vines have a 
stunted appearance, and instead of making fresh growth, 
are at a stand. In such a case 1 advocate using nitrate 
at the rate of quarter of an ounce to one gallon of water. 
When using liquid manure, it is well to let it follow a 
thorough soaking with clear water, that the fertilizing 
material may penetrate to the lowest roots, and if 
possible all watering should be done after the sun has 
gone down, as this will to a great extent save the crack- 
ing of the soil and allow the plants to get the full benefit 
of the moisture. Spraying the vines overhead in the 
cool of the evening will be found to benefit the plants 
during a hot, dry spell. 



23 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



BUDS DROPPING 
Where the plants have been well cultivated and heav- 
ily manured and the vines consequently are growing 
vigorously, it sometimes happens that a large propor- 
tion of the first buds drop from the flower stem before 
opening. A sudden change in the weather will often 
bring on a bad attack of bud dropping. This may be 
due to heavy rains following -a dry spell, or low night 
temperature, which naturally causes a check to the sap 
flow. But the grower need not be alarmed at this, 
as the vines will soon assume their natural mode of 
procedure, all buds subsequently opening and remain- 
ing on the stem as they should do. Bud dropping is 
most frequently met with in a wet season. 

WINTER FLOWERING SWEET PEAS UNDER 

GLASS 
Not so many years ago the winter flowering Sweet Pea 
was more or less of a side line or catch crop with the 
florist — a sort of 'Till in" when other crops had failed 
or stocks run short, but this can not be said of it today. 
It is now a " regular" in all markets, and its place would 
be hard to fill. 

To grow successfully, a heated greenhouse is indis- 
pensable, and the seeds may be sown on raised benches, 
in pots, or the solid bed or border. The date of sowing 
will depend on when the Sweet Peas are wanted to 
bloom. The forcing of winter flowering varieties takes 
from two and one-half to three months from the date 
of planting until blooming, if started about the middle 
of August. Later sowings take rather longer; there- 

24 



WINTER FLOWERING SWEET PEAS UNDER GLASS 

fore, if required for spring cutting, seed should be sown 
early in November. The seed may be sown in the row 
or started in small pots or flats (many growers prefer 
flats). 

Best results are obtained when grown in solid beds, 
though I have seen magnificent Peas cut from plants on 
raised benches. They come into flower earlier when 
grown on raised benches, but the quality of bloom is not 
so fine, nor is the flowering season so prolonged as when 
grown in solid beds. 

With the advent of the new winter flowering Spen- 
cer type, there is no doubt whatever that the Sweet 
Pea will steadily increase in popularity and good prices 
will always be realized for first class flowers. 

As in all other lines, quality counts, therefore, al- 
though it is an easy crop to grow, a little extra care 
in soil preparation, attention to ventilation, watering, 
etc., may make all the diflference between failure and 
success, simply paying for one's labor or making a 
substantial profit. Therefore it behooves the grower 
to start in good time his preparation for this crop. 

Plants that will continue blooming for several 
months, and produce highest quality flowers, can be 
successfully grown only in solid beds, and there must be 
sufficient head room in the house. In the ideal Sweet 
Pea house the eaves will be at least eight feet high. If 
the existing soil in the beds is in good heart, it may be 
necessary further to enrich with farmyard manure, but 
at the same time it should be thoroughly turned over at 
the least two feet deep. Perfect drainage is essential, 
otherwise the plants may collapse entirely when in full 
growth, when water is being applied freely in the spring, 
due to root rot. Therefore, according to the composi- 

25 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



tion of the sub-soil it may be advisable to break up the 
bottom with a pick or even to add drainage in the shape 
of clinkers, stone, etc. No hard and fast rule can be 
laid down for this, as it all depends on the situation of 
the house, drainage, natural soil at the bottom of the 
bed, etc. 

Put in the manure with no niggardly hand if it is 
thoroughly rotted, but keep it well in the second spit, 
also incorporate fine bone meal at the rate of two ounces 
per square yard and a little Scotch soot, using these in 
the top spit. When all is finished give the bed a dress- 
ing of freshly slaked lime, afterwards raking or pointing 
it in. 

if there is any doubt as to the perfect condition of 
the soil it had better be changed. Use good fresh loam 
of a medium nature — that is, neither too heavy nor yet 
light and sandy — and add manure and fertilizers as sug- 
gested. The beds should, where possible, be prepared 
a few weeks previous to sowing or planting, that the 
soil may naturally settle. 



SEED SOWING 
Sow the seed very thinly — say one inch apart — in 
boxes containing sharp sand only. This will insure 
perfect germination, and obviate all risk of seed rotting. 
When sowing cover the seed not more than half an inch. 
Water thoroughly and cover with paper to prevent the 
rapid evaporation of moisture. After having tried all 
plans I could think of, I have proved this to be the most 
perfect method. 

If some varieties are slow in starting it is a simple 
matter to find the seed in the sand, when they should 

26 



SEED SOWING 



be chipped and replaced, following which they will 
very quickly sprout. 

When the seedlings are two or three inches high 
they must be transplanted to their flowering quarters — 
care being taken not to injure the roots, setting them 
three to four inches apart in the row. Wherever prac- 
ticable the rows should be at least four feet apart. 

Another method from which 1 have had excellent 
results, is to make a two inch furrow in the beds, filling 
it with sand into which the seed is pressed to a depth 
of from one to one and one-half inches. This naturally 
saves the labor of transplanting. Or again the seed 
may be soaked in warm water for twelve hours — when 
on examination any seed which shows no sign of swell- 
ing should be chipped, and all immediately sown. 

To ensure a long cutting season and first quality 
flowers, a perfect root growth to the plant is essential, 
and this can be attained only by keeping the house as 
cool as possible during the earlier stages of growth. 
Give ventilation day and night, so long as there is no 
danger of frost. At this time a temperature around 40 
to 46 degrees Fahr. at night — rising 10 degrees during 
the day — is what to aim for. I f the house is much warmer 
the plants will quickly shoot up and prematurely pro- 
duce flowers long before the proper root foundation, so 
necessary for the future well-being of the plant, is laid. 

When coming into flower the temperature must be 
gradually raised to 50 degrees at night and 65 degrees to 
70 degrees during the day, according to the weather. 
During cloudy damp weather the trouble with bud 
dropping miay be experienced if the atmosphere in the 
house becomes laden with moisture. This is the time 
when the grower must be on the alert, and it may be 

27 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



found necessary to run a little extra heat in the pipes, at 
the same time carefully ventilating the house so that 
the dampness in the air may he expelled. But do not 
run up the temperature beyond 65 degrees; when in 
flower and during bright weather the day temperature 
may go to 70 degrees with safety. 

If stimulants in the shape of liquid manure be given 
it must be done with caution, for if applied indiscrimi- 
nately it may bring on a bad case of bud dropping, es- 
pecially during the shorter days. A. light dressing of 
bone meal, pulverized sheep manure or thoroughly 
rotted old cow manure is recommended, and cow ma- 
nure as a diluted liquid is also safe. 

Provided the soil is fairly moist when the plants 
are set out, or the seed sown, very little water will be 
required for some time. Though, should the weather 
be mild and warm accompanied by much sun, it may be 
well to syringe the plants each morning, until it is ob- 
served that they have commenced to grow again. 

When growing strongly they must, of course, be 
watered regularly, at least whenever the soil shows 
signs of drying out. Do not water close up to the 
plants, and give the ground a thorough soaking. Al- 
ways water in the early part of the day and only during 
clear, bright weather. 

To safeguard the crop from the green fly or pea 
louse, the house should be fumigated at least every ten 
days, for should this pest once get a good start it is 
very difficult to eradicate. 

WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES 
I have found that the most accommodating variety 
with regard to vagaries of temperature and weather is 

28 



WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES 

Yarrawa. It seldom vexes the grower by dropping 
its buds, while the 'flowers are of great size, and if at 
all well grown, are invariably borne on extra long stiff 
stems. 

I am hoping that all the seedlings 1 have now on the 
way with Yarrawa blood in them may prove to be of 
equally easy culture, for, so far, no Sweet Pea at present 
on the market is so easily handled as that fine variety. 
Yarrawa is a cream ground bicolor, color a pleasing 
shade of bright rose-pink, wings creamy-pink, and it 
was one of the best sellers on the market during the past 
season. 

Another popular color is the pink and white bi- 
color — the old Blanche Ferry color — which in the new 
Spencer type is grand. 

There are now many hybridists at work on this new 
type of Sweet Pea, so we may safely predict the intro- 
duction of new colors, and improvements over existing 
sorts in the near future. In addition to its usefulness 
for indoor culture it is now being grown in quantity in 
the open in the sunny South, where, from sowings made 
at the end of September or early October, it blooms 
from December until June. 

With the exception of that fine Australian variety 
Yarrawa, the following varieties are the result of crosses I 
have been making at Fordhook Farms. 1 started this 
interesting work in 1909, crossing the best of the then 
available Spencers on such varieties as Burpee's Earliest 
of All— Burpee's Earliest Sunbeams— Mont Blanc, etc. 
Since the introduction of Yarrawa 1 have used it almost 
exclusively and am looking forward to much improve- 
ment in this most valuable type. 



29 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Early King (Burpee 19 17). Crimson self. 
Early Pink Beauty (Burpee 1917). Light pink self. 
Early Enchantress (Burpee 1917). Deep pink. 
FoRDHOOK Pink and White (Burpee 191 7). Pink 

standard, white wings. 
FoRDHOOK Rose (Burpee 1916). Rich rose self. 
FoRDHOOK Early Sankey (Burpee 1917). White self. 
Early Loveliness (Burpee 1917). White suffused 

pink. 
Primrose Beauty (Burpee 1917). Primrose self. 
Rosy Morn (Burpee 19 17). Scarlet and rose. 
Yarrawa (Yates 1912). Rosy-pink and cream. 
FoRDHOOK Pink (Burpee 1916). Lavender pink self. 



GROWING EARLY OR WINTER FLOWERING 
SWEET PEAS IN THE OPEN 

The winter flowering varieties described above, in 
addition to their usefulness for growing under glass, 
will be found of great value for outdoor culture. In 
fact, in localities where on account of extreme heat the 
summer flowering Sweet Peas did not succeed, or at 
best gave only a few flowers ere the vines died off, this 
new type can be grown to perfection. 

We have received glowing letters in praise of the 
early flowering varieties from friends located in Florida 
and other warm sections, where, from seed sown in late 
September and early October, they have cut beautiful 
Sweet Peas for Christmas, while the vines continued 
blooming until May or June. 

The summer flowering or original varieties of Spen- 
cers sown at the same time will not flower until April. 
Therefore, 1 recommend with confidence using the 

30 



SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION 



early flowering varieties in all tropical or sub-tropical 
countries, our Southern States and other localities which 
are frostless — or almost so. A little frost will not per- 
manently harm the Sweet Pea, although it would spoil 
the expanded and opening flowers. 



SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION 
The majority of the blue and lavender colored Sweet 
Peas produce small, poor looking seeds of a mottled 
appearance, which by the novice may be regarded as 
of inferior quality, yet it is simply the nature of these 
varieties to produce such seed, and they are of as good 
germinative power as the large, round, plump seed 
which we fmd in the other colors. 

Some seasons Sweet Peas are slow in germinating 
or fail to do so altogether. Now, before condemning 
the seedsman, it is well to find out where the fault 
lies, and if the grower will take the trouble to carefully 
examine the seed, nine times out of ten he will fmd that 
although they are still perfectly dormant they are quite 
plump and fresh, and if the outer coating is cut with a 
sharp knife, taking care not to harm the embryo plant, 
he will find that in a few days they will germinate 
freely and well. The reason assigned for this state 
of affairs is that the seeds have been so well ripened — 
say after a very hot, dry summer — that the coating 
has become so hard as to be quite impervious to mois- 
ture. 

In the case of new and expensive varieties, many 
growers have now adopted the method of cutting all 
the seed ere planting. I recommend soaking the seed 

.31 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



overnight in warm water. On examination any 
seeds which show no sign of swelling should then be 
chipped as shown on the illustration. 




White seeded varieties are also a cause of much 
annoyance at times, as they are apt to rot in the ground 
should the weather be wet and cold after planting. 
We, therefore, advise sowing these rather thicker than 
the dark seeded sorts, and not so deeply; or, to hurry 
germination, and so avoid the risk of them rotting in 
the soil, the seed should be soaked in warm water for 
twelve hours previous to planting, or, if starting them 
in pots, use an inch layer of sand, as advised on page 12, 
this being the method 1 always use when planting 
scarce and new varieties, and with most satisfactory 
results. 

Another method to insure perfect germination is to 
soak the large plump dark seeded sorts in pure sulphuric 
acid for thirty minutes. After soaking, wash thorough- 
ly in three changes of water. Do not subject the white 
or small mottled varieties to the acid, or if doing so, it 
should not be for more than five minutes. 



INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT 
The Cut Worm. — This pest is in some seasons most 
destructive to the vines in early stages of growth, and 

32 



INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT 



various methods of combating its ravages have from 
time to time been advocated, such as hand-picking, 
sowing lettuce beside the rows of Peas, etc. However, 
a dusting of tobacco powder or soot will be found as 
effectual a deterrent to the mischief caused by these 
worms as anything you can try. 

Red Spider and Green Aphis or "Pea Louse." — 
These small insects are apt to attack the vines during 
hot and dry periods, and war must be waged against 
them as soon as they appear or they will multiply so 
quickly as to soon destroy all growth. We recommend 
spraying with whale-oil soap or a weak solution of 
kerosene emulsion, applying it every third day until 
the vines are quite free of them. Vines that are kept 
growing steadily and that receive a spraying of clear 
water occasionally in the evening are less liable to be 
attacked by these pests. 

The Sweet Pea Blight, as the writer has seen it, 
appears to be caused by drought combined with shallow 
cultivation, for had the roots been able to penetrate 
the hard subsoil and reached rich soil, the plants would 
naturally have kept healthy and strong, instead of 
drying up, flagging, and becoming yellow, in many 
cases ere they had even bloomed. 

Streak Disease (Thilavia bassicola), although 
so prevalent some seasons in England, rarely, if ever, 
is to be met with in this section, and 1 have not heard 
of it being seen in California. 

Scientists who have studied "streak'' seem to have 
arrived at the conclusion that errors in manuring were 
at the root of the evil. 

We are told that all nitrogenous manures should 
be withheld from the Sweet Pea, for as it belongs to the 

33 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



leguminosas family of plants, all of which are capable 
of assimilating the free nitrogen of the atmosphere, it 
is unnatural to feed it nitrates, as by so doing the 
nitrogen-gathering bacteria in the root nodules die of 
inanition and the plant is, therefore, susceptible to 
disease. Therefore where disease has prevailed it is 
well to avoid the too free use of farmyard manure. 

If the soil must have humus, apply the dung to the 
previous crop, or use it only in a thoroughly rotted 
condition, as in that state most of the nitrogen will 
previously have been liberated. 

Some experts claim that the free use of sulphate of 
potash will prevent disease, and advocate applying it at 
the rate of one pound to every four yard run of row two 
weeks previous to planting or sowing, forking it well 
into the ground. Of course, this must be done only 
when the soil is in a sufficiently dry condition. 

Permanganate of potash is also advocated and 1 
have, found much benefit to follow its use. Dissolve 
one ounce of the crystals in six gallons of water, thor- 
oughly saturate the soil around the plants, and also 
spray the vines at intervals of six or seven days. 



THE BEST SWEET PEAS 
So much depends on the personal taste or fancy of 
the expert that it would be absurd to say arbitrarily 
that any set of varieties were the very best. However, 
to assist those who have not had an opportunity of 
making comparisons, the following selections can be de- 
pended upon whether they are intended for exhibition 
purposes or for garden and home decoration. My first 
choice is those marked with an asterisk. 

34 



THE BEST SWEET PEAS 



♦Cherub Primrose edged rose 

♦Constance Hinton White self 

Dainty Spencer White edged rose 

Doris Usher Salmon-pink on cream 

Edith Taylor Rosy cerise 

*Elfrida Pearson Blush pink 

*Fiery Cross Fire-red self 

*Floradale Fairy Primrose self 

Florence Nightingale Lavender 

George Herbert Rosy carmine 

♦Hercules Deep pink 

♦Illuminator Cerise-pink and salmon 

King Edward Spencer Bright crimson 

♦King White Pure white 

♦Margaret Atlee Rosy pink on cream 

Margaret Madison Clear azure blue 

Mrs. Cuthbertson Pink and white 

♦Mrs. Routzahn Apricot and pink 

♦Nubian or King Manoel Deep maroon 

♦Orchid Helio mauve 

Queen Victoria Spencer Primrose flushed rose 

Robt. Sydenham Orange self 

Rosab^Ue Rose 

♦Royal Purple Purple self 

Scarlet Emperor or 

Vermilion Brilliant Crimson-scarlet 

Tennant Spencer Purplish mauve 

♦The President Orange scarlet self 

Wedgwood Light blue 



Varieties for Truckers and Market Gardeners 
Truckers and market gardeners who have a market 
for cut flowers are now awakening to the fact that there 
is money in Sweet Peas. The writer saw a letter from 
a trucker some time ago which stated he had made 

35 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



$400.00 that season from quarter of an acre of Sweet 
Peas. Therefore, to those in suitable locations this 
is surely encouragement enough to induce them to 
give these popular flowers a trial. We have heard of 
growers sowing their Sweet Peas after taking off an 
early crop of vegetables, but would rather favor the 
method of sowing Sweet Peas on a free piece of land 
as early in the spring as possible, putting up the trellising 
at once, and in the space between the rows planting an 
early crop of lettuce, radish, etc., that will be cleared 
away before the Peas come into flower. This plan 
could be altered according to location and latitude, or 
they might be sown in the fall; but what we would 
like to impress upon the grower is that it is no use 
expecting best results if the seed are sown late in the 
spring, for to secure a long flowering season the roots 
must have made good growth before warm weather 
sets in. 

As the best prices are obtained from flowers bunched 
in one color, it is advisable to sow named varieties, 
and if only six varieties are wanted to start wi<h, we 
recommend the following as being as good as any for 
this class of trade: 



Yarrawa Rose-pink and cream 

Nora Unwin White 

Countess Spencer Rich pink 

King Edward Spencer Crimson 

Florence Nightingale Lavender 

Mrs. Routzahn Cream pink 

Or a more extended list might be made from the 
list given on page 35. 



36 



GROWING FOR EXHIBITION 



GROWING FOR EXHIBITION 
Where the main object of the planter is flowers for the 
exhibition table, more intensive methods of culture 
are usually carried out. For instance, if the rows of 
Peas are grown in a block, instead of trenching the 
ground for each individual row only, the entire piece of 
ground should be deeply dug and thoroughly manured, 
as described on page 1 1 and the growths thinned out 
considerably; in fact, only taking up two to four stems 
on each plant. All other branches or laterals being 
carefully pulled out, not cut out, as by adopting the 
latter method new laterals would again be emitted in 
the course of a few days. 

Plant in double rows, allowing twelve inches 
between the rows, and in transplanting set each plant 
at least six inches apart in the row. If the seed has 
been sown four or five in a pot, or in boxes, care must 
be taken not to break or injure the roots in any way 
when separating them, and in planting do not cramp 
the roots. Spread them out carefully and see that the 
hole is of a sufficient depth to allow for the main root 
without any doubling. As the growth is concentrated 
in a limited number of stems the vines will, therefore, 
be much taller than when allowed to grow naturally, 
and provision must be made for this when staking. 

The best method is to drive stout posts at the end 
of each double row, to which nail two or three cross 
pieces, the first eighteen inches wide, attached about 
nine inches from the ground, the center pieces twelve 
inches wide, and the top cross piece nine inches. Stout 
wires are then strained horizontally along both sides of 
the row from the cross pieces. Long stakes or bamboos 

37 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



L 




Reproduction of a photograph received from Percy A. Brightman, 
Newport, R. 1., which illustrates the Cordon system as explained on 
pages 37 to 40 inclusive. 



38 



GROWING FOR EXHIBITION 



are now put flat against the wires, to which they must 
be securely tied. The height of all will naturally 
depend on what section of the country the grower 
resides. For instance, in our northern states and 
Canada the vines may be expected to run from ten to 
twelve or more feet in height, while further south six 
to eight feet may be sufficient, and much will of course 
depend on the season. 

It will be observed that by the above arrangement 
the tops slope inward, the reason being that when 
grown by this intensive method, each stem is ultimately 
brought to the outside of the stakes, to which they must 
be carefully tied as growth proceeds. 

Do not thin out the stems until the plants are at 
least twelve inches high, but be careful that they are 
kept upright during all stages of growth, as when they 
are allowed to sprawl along the ground they run the 
risk of being trampled upon or twisted and injured by 
wind, and it is in the earlier days that the welfare of the 
plants must be most carefully guarded if success is to 
be obtained. 

In training the shoots they should be at least four 
inches apart, according to the space at disposal. 

On the approach of warm weather do not omit to 
give the plants a good mulch of strawy farmyard 
manure, and follow immediately with a thorough soak- 
ing of water. 

In applying water throughout the season the grower 
will be guided by weather and soil conditions, but the 
plants must not be allowed to suffer for lack of moisture. 
On no account give water in driblets— either a thorough 
soaking or none at all. On light porous soils water may 
safely be given during a dry spell at least twice a week, 

39 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



and on heavier and more retentive soils once a week. 
When flowers appear liquid manures should also be 
used, but given rather weak to begin with. Sheep or 
cow manure, made by steeping it in a tub or barrel, or 
taken from the farm cesspool and well diluted, will be 
found excellent, and this may be changed occasionally 
for artificials. Superphosphate (acid phosphate), one 
ounce to a gallon of water. Sulphate of potash, 
nitrate of potash, half an ounce to a gallon of water. 
Nitrate of soda should be given only if the plants re- 
quire a special "pick me up" towards the end of the 
season. 

To give flowers extra fme color I believe there is 
nothing to surpass soot (the real Scotch imported 
soot may now be obtained from many establish- 
ments). 

In showery weather it may be dusted along the 
soil on both sides of the plants, or used as a liquid 
manure as advised on page 23. 



EXHIBITING SWEET PEAS 
Intending exhibitors must keep the blooms hard cut 
from the vines until, say, four days previous to the 
date of the show, and all varieties that are likely to 
scald with the sun should be shaded with cheese-cloth 
or other light material, as in close competition a single 
scorched flower might make all the difference between 
a first or second prize. Do not erect the shading until 
three days previous to the date the flowers are required, 
and remove it immediately after cutting, as continued 
shading rapidly weakens the plant. 

Varieties that have orange in their colorings (such 
40 



EXHIBITING SWEET PEAS 



as Stirling Stent, Thos. Stevenson, Helen Lewis), the 
scarlets, and the blues, should all be protected. The 
blooms should be cut at the last possible minute, 
choosing whenever practicable the early morning or 
the evening, putting the flowers immediately into water 
and placing in a cool room or cellar until packed. Pick 
only young, fresh blooms with the last flower just 
open or in the opening stage, as should you be cutting 
the day previous to the show, it will be fully expanded 
by the time the judges come around. Cut with as long 
stems as possible. The ideal spray should have a 
stem of twelve to eighteen inches long, with four good 
flowers on it. Therefore, aim at the ideal. If the 
flowers are wet when cut they must be put very thinly 
in vases and placed in a room where there is a little 
heat, but through which a current of air is playing that 
they may dry off ere being packed, for if they are at all 
moist when packed for travelling, the flowers will, 
when unpacked, be found to be discolored and spotted 
and many of the blooms will drop from the stems. 

In staging the flowers never crowd them. Let 
every flower "speak for itself.'' Twenty sprays make 
a nice vase, and the best method of arranging them is 
to start by putting some stiff grass or reeds (cut two 
inches long) in the mouth of the vase, as this helps to 
keep the stems in position. Each stem must be put in 
separately. Let every flower be seen as far as possible 
and all face one way, with the exception of such varieties 
as have the back of the standards tinted in coloring 
other than the ground color cf the flower, when the 
position of such might be judiciously varied. One or 
two pieces of foliage — a little Gypsophila — or light 
grass, such as Agrostis Nebulosa, might with advantage 

41 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



be used. But this should not be overdone, and only if 
the rules allow of it. 

In staging a collection of twelve varieties, they 
should be stood in three rows, the back rows being 
tiered eight or nine inches above the other, and arrange 
the colors so that they do not clash. Even if the show 
schedule does not ask for it, name each variety with 
a neat card placed at the base of each vase. 

During very hot or stormy weather, some exhibitors 
cut their flowers in the bud stage or partly open and 
allow them to fully expand in water, adding about 
a quarter of an ounce of sulphate of iron to three 
gallons of water. Seme colors, such as the light blues, 
mauves and lavenders improve very much in color by 
this method, but the salmon orange and crimson 
colored varieties lose much of their beauty when cut 
for long before they are required. 



SWEET PEAS FOR TABLE AND OTHER 
DECORATIONS 
Few flowers lend themselves so readily to the deco- 
rator's art as does the fragrant Sweet Pea. They 
require no wiring or stiffening of the stem — once they 
are cut, they are ready for the deft fmgers to create 
charming effects for any purpose. 

Pretty effects may be had by associating two colors 
that harmonize, though perhaps nothing is daintier 
than a table decorated with one variety only — say, 
the beautiful Countess Spencer. A lovely combination 
may be obtained by using Barbara or Stirling Stent with 
Queen Victoria Spencer or Primrose Spencer, or a 
crimson and a yellow, and Orchid in conjunction with 

42 



SWEET PEAS FOR TABLE DECORATION 



a rich cream pink, and Illuminator with a rich primrose 
variety — all form most charming color harmonies. 
Lavender and blue Sv/eet Peas look dull under artificial 
light, though very pleasing at other times. Or, again, 
various shades of pink, from light to dark, form a 
beautiful color scheme. 

In arranging the flowers let all be as light and airy 
looking as possible; never jam the sprays closely 
together; strive to let every flower be seen. Allow 
a few flowers to stand well above the others, which 
tends to give all a natural appearance. A few sprays 
of colored lycopodium allowed to trail over the sides 
of the receptacles and arranged on the table, or sprays 
of asparagus, smilax or other light greenery, all help 
the general effect, while light grasses and a little of 
their own foliage inserted among the flowers will lend 
grace and elegance to the arrangement — if not overdone. 



THE ''SPENCER'' TYPE OF SWEET PEAS 
The introduction of Countess Spencer in 1904 will 
be marked as creating a new era in the Sweet Pea 
world. This most lovely of pink Sweet Peas is of 
immense size, and the forerunner of quite a new type. 
Previous to the Countess Spencer appearing, our Sweet 
Peas were either of hooded standard or expanded 
upright standard forms. Countess Spencer was the 
first to appear with beautifully frilled and wavy stand- 
ard and wings, of immense size — but, alas! it was not 
fixed to type, as it sported very badly. This sportive 
character, however, has proved really a blessing in 
disguise, as so many of the sports were of quite new 
shades, at the same time containing all the parents* 

43 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



characteristic form and size. Ail would have been 
right had the various seed-growers not been in such a 
hurry to rush those unfixed sports upon the market, 
much to the disgust of many amateur growers. 

A peculiarity about the "Spencer" sports is that 
they generally come in duplicate: i. e., the same 
color in Spencer and grandiflora types. Take, for 
instance, Helen Lewis and John Ingman: with Helen 
Lewis sport there was also a very large grandiflora 
sport of the same color, similar in appearance to Lady 
Mary Currie, and with John Ingman appeared a variety 
of much the same color, but also of grandiflora type. 
The result was that both were saved, and as the old 
type is so much more prolific in seed-bearing, the result 
became worse instead of even remaining stationary. 
However, observant growers are now becoming more 




King White. Engravedfrovi a Photograph. 

44 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



careful in the saving and roguing of their stocks, so 
that in the future we may hope for better results from 
new colors of the Spencer type. 

Much has been written on the sportiveness of Count- 
ess Spencer and its seedlings, some growers affirming 
that it is caused by small insects, others that the bee 
is supposed to split the calyx or keel and so carry the 
pollen to other varieties; others again explain how the 
pistils in some flowers are enlarged and come out 
through the keel, and so are in a position to catch the 
pollen from other varieties; but it is a question how 
any of these theories can be established, as it is a rec- 
ognized fact that fertilization has been effected ere 
the flower opens. 



LIST OF SPENCER SWEET PEAS 

The following includes — so far as we know — all varieties 
introduced up to 1917, and although the majority of 
them will never become popular, a description of these 
later introductions doubtless will be of interest to Sweet 
Pea enthusiasts. We have tested practically every 
variety as it was introduced, and are now offering only 
those which in our opinion are of superior merit, full 
particulars of which will be found in " Burpee's Annual." 

A. B. Bantock. (Baker's, 1910.) Creamy buff and pink, 

shaded amber. 
A.N.Dickson. (Breadmore, 191 i.) Rosy-lilac with purple 

wings. 
A. A. Fabius. (Alsen, 1910.) Glowing rose. 
Adelaide. (Dobbie, 191 7.) This was originally named 

Anzac. Standard rich purple. Wings electric-blue. 



45 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Afterglow. (Bolton, 191 1.) Reddish-mauve with violet 

wings. 
Aggie Elder. (Breadmore, 191 3.) Similar to Decorator. 
Agnita. (Cautley, 1912.) White, flushed lilac. 
Agricola. (Bolton, 1913.) White, flushed soft lilac. 
Aitken's Carmine. (Aitken, 1914.) Light carmine rose. 
Alfred Watkins. (Dobbie, 1915.) Clear lavender-blue. 
Albert Gilbert. (Gilbert, 1910.) Rose self, similar to 

Marie Corelli. 
Alpha. (Breadmore, 1912.) Pale lilac self. 
Althorp Cream. (Cole, 1910.) Similarto Primrose Spencer. 
Althorp White. (Cole, 1910.) Similar to White Spencer. 
Amber. (Aldersey and Jones, 1913.) Rich salmon rose. 
America Spencer. (Burpee, 1910.) Red flaked on white 

ground. 
Amethyst. (Aldersey, 1910.) Violet blue. 
Andrew Aitken. (Bolton, 191 3.) Soft salmon. 
Anglian Brilliant. (King, 1914.) Coppery-red. 
Anglian Cream. (King, 191 5.) Intense cream self. 
Anglian Crimson. (King, 1910.) Crimson self. 
Anglian Fairy. (King, 191 3.) Light lemon, suffused pale 

copper. 
Anglian Lavender. (King, 191 1.) Deep lavender, suf- 
fused pink. 
Anglian Orange. (King, 191 1.) Salmon-pink. 
Anglian Pink. (King, 191 1.) Salmon-pink on cream 

ground. Similar to Miriam Beaver. 
Anglian Royal. (King, 1914.) Crimson-lake. 
Annabel Lee. (Alsen, 191 3.) Rosy-mauve. Similar to 

Irish Belle. 
Anna Lumley. (Lumley, 1909.) Synonymous with Othello 

Spencer. 
Annie Bownass. (Dickson, 191 7.) White, suffused pink 

and amber. 
Annie Sculpher. (Deal, 1913.) Salmon-cerise. 
Annis Gibson. (Breadmore, 1912.) Purplish-mauve. 

46 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Apple Blossom Spencer. (Burpee, 1908.) Rose and blush. 

April. (Dipnall, 1913.) Blue flake on white ground. 

Ariel. (Dipnall, 191 5.) White suffused blush-pink. 

Arthur Green. (Dobbie, 1911.) Bronzy-brown with vio- 
let wings. 

Arthur Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Salmon-rose with buff 
wings. 

AsHANTEE. (Stark, 1912.) Reddish maroon. 

AsTA Ohn. (Morse, 1909.) Charming soft lavender, suf- 
fused mauve. 

Attraction. (King, 1916.) Light shell-pink. 

Audrey Crier. (Breadmore, 1908.) A lovely shade of 
salmon pink, of the largest size and finest form. 

Aurora Spencer. (Burpee-Morse, 1909.) Cream white 
ground; exquisitely flaked and mottled rich orange salmon. 

Austin Frederick. (Woodcock, 191 1.) Pale lavender. , 

Avalanche. (Lumley, 1912.) White self. 

Barbara. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Salmon-orange self. 

Beatrice Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Soft pink and buff. 

Beauty. (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A blush pink Spencer. 
Similar to Florence Morse Spencer. 

Bellona. (Dipnall, 1917.) Dark rich scarlet. 

Bend Or. (Aldersey, 1912.) Salmon standard, rose wings. 

Bertha Massey. (Bide, 191 1.) Rosy-lilac self. 

Bertie Usher. (Usher, 1912.) Violet flake on white. 
Similar to Loyalty. 

Bertrand Deal. (Deal, 1910.) Rosy-mauve self. 

Beryl. (Aldersey, 19 13.) Creamy-pink self. Very similar 
to Lilian. 

Beryl. (Dickson, 1917.) A soft salmon-pink. 

Betty. (Dobbie, 1912.) Purplish-mauve. 

Betty Cautley. (Cautley, 191 1.) Peach, shaded salmon. 

Birdbrook. (Bolton, 191 3.) Maroon flake on white. 

Bird OF Paradise. (Hemus, 1912.) A Helen Pierce Spencer. 

Black Knight Spencer. (Stevenson, 1910.) Shining 
maroon. 

47 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Blanche Ferry Spencer. (Ferry, 1910.) Standard rose- 
pink. Wings blush. 

Blue Flake Spencer. (Box, 191 2.) Blue flake on white. 

Blue Jacket. (Stark, 1912.) Deep navy blue. 

Blue King. (Bide, 191 3.) Dark blue. 

Blue Picotee. (Dobbie, 1914.) White edged violet. 

Blue Bell Spencer. (Stark, 1916.) A real true blue. 

Blue Gem. (Watkins and Simpson, 1916.) Clear mid-blue. 

Blue Monarch. (Stark, 191 5.) Rich navy blue self. 

Blush Spencer. (King, 1909.) White suffused blush pink. 

BoADiCEA. (Bolton, 191 5.) Light pink, suffused mauve. 

Bobbie K. (Chandler-Unwin, 1908.) A pale pink Spencer. 
Similar to Florence Morse Spencer. 

Bolton's Orange. (Bolton, 191 5.) This is very similar to 

I Robert Sydenham. 

Bolton's Scarlet. (Bolton, 1913.) Light scarlet self. 

Breadmore's Frilled Cream. (Breadmore, 1913.) Deep 
cream self. 

Breadmore's Lavender. (Breadmore, 1909.) (Lavender 
George Herbert.) A lavender Spencer. 

Brilliant Spencer. (Stark, 1916.) Crimson standard; 
wings, rosy-carmine. 

Brookland's Queen. (Deal, 1914.) Salmon-pink standard, 
blush wings. 

Brunette. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 19 13.) Mahogany self. 

Burgundy. (Stark, 191 3.) Rich wine self. 

Buttercup. (Lumley, 1910.) Cream self. 

Cairngorm. (Aldersey, 1912.) White, flushed blue. 

Cambridge Blue. (Holmes, 1914.) A light blue self. 

Captain of the Blues Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish- 
maroon. Wings purple. Similar to Waverley. 

Captain H. Travers. (Agate, 191 3.) Bright salmon self. 
Very similar to Stirling Stent. 

Captivation Spencer. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Rich rosy 
wine-red. 

Catherine Lumley. (Lumley, 1910.) Orange with pink. 

48 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Cecil Crier. (Breadmore, 1907.) A deep rosy-pink. 

Cerise Paradise. (Hemus, 1910.) Similar to Coccinea 
Spencer. 

Cerise Spencer. (Holmes-Sydenham, 191 3.) A large cer- 
ise self. 

Charity. (Stevenson, 1917.) Rich brilliant crimson. 

Charles Foster. (Bolton, 191 1.) Pastel pink, shaded 
lavender. 

Charles Hemus. (Hemus, 1910.) Light maroon or ma- 
hogany, small. 

Charlie Irving. (Breadmore, 1910.) Orange-salmon. 

Charm. (Burpee, 191 3.) Blush, shaded pale lilac. 

Chastity. (Bath, 1912.) Large waved blush. 

Cheerful. (Bolton, 1916.) Light apricot and mauve on 
cream ground. 

Cherub. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Rich cream, edged rose. 

Cherry Ripe. (Gilbert, 1909.) Cerise self, similar to Coc- 
cinea Spencer. 

Chilton. (Clark, 1909.) Pale salmon-pink Spencer. 

Chocolate. (Aldersey, 19 12.) Dark chocolate self. 

Cis Wright. (Wright, 19 16.) Light cream pink, tinted 
lilac. 

Clara Curtis. (Bolton, 1908.) Primrose colored Spencer. 
Synonymous with Primrose Spencer. 

Clark's Duchess. (Clark, 1909.) Deep salmon. 

Clark's Queen. (Clark, 1909.) Cream shaded towards 
edges of petals with deep pink. 

Climax. (Woodcock, 1914.) Rich carmine-rose. 

Coccinea Paradise. (Hemus, 1910.) Cerise self, similar to 
Coccinea Spencer. 

Coccinea Spencer. (Breadmore, 191 1.) Bright cerise. 

CoDSALL Rose. (Baker, 1906.) A deep rose. 

Colleen. (W. Deal, 1910.) Carmine standard, wings blush. 

Colonel Larner Clarke. (Alsen, 1910.) Purplish maroon. 

Comet. (Hemus, 1912.) Rosy-pink, deeper at edges. 

Commander Humphrey. (Cole, 191 1.) A rich puce. 

49 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Conspicuous. (Malcolm, 191 5.) A fine maroon self. 

Constance Acomb. ' (Holmes, 1916.) Creamy-white, suf- 
fused mauve. 

Constance Champion. (Bide, 1916.) Soft cerise-salmon. 

Constance Hinton. (Hinton-Wheeler, 1914.) A black 
seeded white. 

Constance Oliver. (Lumlcy, 1908.) Delicate pink, suf- 
fused with cream. Similar to Nell Gwynne. 

Contrast. (Bath, 1910.) Blue and purple, edged white. 

Coral. (Aldersey, 1910.) Bright pink. 

Coral Gem. (J. K. King, 1916.) Cream pink self. 

Coronation. (Bolton, 191 2.) Apricot, flushed pink, on 
cream ground. 

Countess of Ancaster. (Gilbert, 1910.) Deep plum self. 

Countess of Northbrook. (Breadmore, 1909.) Large 
pale pink. 

Countess Spencer. (Sydenham-Cole, 1904.) A lovely pale 
pink. The original "Spencer." 

Ccerulea. (Faulkner and Aikens, 1913.) Blue, with mauve 
tint in standard. 

Cowrie. (Aldersey, 1910.) Bright pink self. 

Cream Paradise. (Hemus, 1909.) Light primrose self. 

Crimson Giant. (Deal, 191 3.) Bright crimson self. 

Crimson Paradise. (Hemus, 1908.) Crimson. Similar to 
King Edward Spencer. 

Crimson Queen. (Hobbie, 1916.) Crimson self. 

Cromwell. (Bolton, 191 3.) White, flaked violet-mauve. 

Crystal. (Aldersey, 191 2.) White, flushed pale rose. 

Cynthia. (Ward, 1912.) Pink on cream ground. Some- 
what in way of Mrs. Hugh Dickson. 

Cyril Unwin. (Unwin, 1912.) Maroon and violet. 

Dainty Spencer. (Bath, 1909.) See Elsie Herbert, with 
which it is synonymous. 

Daisy. (Gilbert, 1912.) Pink self, white ground. 

Dazzler. (Breadmore, 1910.) Bright glowing orange- 
scarlet. 

50 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Decorator. (Dickson-Burpee, 191 3.) A Rose du Barri 

Spencer. 
Delight. (Deal, 1914.) Similar to Decorator. 
Dick Bide. (Bide, 1916.) Amaranth-red. 
Distinction. (Bath, 1910.) Similar to Dainty Spencer. 
Dobbie's Cream. (Dobbie, 1912.) Primrose self. 
Dobbie's Scarlet. (Dobbie, 191 3.) Bright scarlet self. 
Dobbie's Orange. (Dobbie, 191 5.) Similar to Robert 

Sydenham. 
Dobbie's True Lavender. (Dobbie, 1913.) Pale blue self. 

Similar to Margaret Madison. 
DoDWELL F. Brown. (Eckford, 1909.) Crimson. 
Don Alvar. (Bolton, 191 5.) A large pure lavender. 
Dora. (Dobbie, 1917.) Cream, standard deep rose-pink 

and salmon. 
Doris Burt. (Unwin, 191 o.) Crimson-scarlet self. 
Doris Clayton. (Breadmore, 1909.) Lavender. 
Doris Usher. (Usher-Sutton, 191 i.) Pink on cream ground. 
Dorothy. (Bolton, 191 2.) Rosy-lilac self. Similar to 

Irish Belle. 
Dorothy Harland. (Bide, 1910.) Pale salmon, cream 

ground. 
Dorothy Lees. (Lees-Sutton, 191 3.) French gray self. 
Douglas Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Maroon self. 
Dragonfly. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Lavender and rose on 

cream ground. 
Duchess of Portland. (Dobbie, 191 5.) Cream-pink, suf- 
fused apricot. 
Duplex Cream. (Morse, 191 3.) Cream self with double 

standards. 
Duplex Helen Williams. (Stark, 1917.) Color similar to 

Cherub. 
Duplex Maggie Stark. (Stark, 191 3.) Rich orange with 

double standards. 
Duplex Mauve. (Hobbie's, 191 6.) A large duplex mauve 

self. 

51 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Duplex Scarlet. (Stark, 1914.) A double crimson-scarlet. 
Duplex Spencer (Dobbie-Burpee, 1912.) Rich pink on 

cream ground. 
Dusky Monarch. (Breadmore, 1910.) Dark purple-ma- 
roon. 
Earl Cromer Spencer. (Bide, 1910.) Crimson-lake. 
Earl of Chester. (Ward, 1910.) Orange. 
Earl of Lovelace. (Sutton, 191 3.) A Duplex white. 
Earl of Plymouth. (Baker, 1909.) Buff-colored self. 
Earl Spencer. (Cole, Dobbie, 1910.) A waved Henry 

Eckford. 
Eastern Queen. (Cross, 191 3.) Pale watered blue. 
E. C. Matthews. (Jones, 1907.) Velvety maroon. 
Edith. (House, 1912.) In the way of Helen Grosvenor, 

with double standards. 
Edith King. (Unwin, 1914.) Blue veined on white ground. 
Edith Taylor. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Salmon-rose 

self. 
Edna Harland. (Bide, 1911.) Carmine-pink. 
Edna May. (Woodcock, 191 2.) White self. 
Edna Turner. (Dipnall, 191 1.) Cream-pink. 
Edna Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Orange-scarlet. 
Edrom Beauty. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1911.) Standard 

orange, wings rosy-salmon. Similar to Helen Lewis. 
Edward Cowdy. (Unwin, 1915.) Fiery orange-scarlet. 
E. J. Deal. (Johnson, 1910.) White, edged rosy carmine. 

Similar to Elsie Herbert. 
Elaine. (Hemus, 1910.) Standard mauve, wings white. 
Electric. (King, 191 3.) Purplish lavender. 
Elfrida Ellicott. (Damerum, 1914.) Rosy magenta. 
Elfrida Pearson. (Pearson, 191 1.) Blush-pink. 
Elizabeth. (Cross, 191 3.) Brick-red self. 
Elizabeth Hemus. (Hemus, 1910.) Blush-pink. 
Ella Box. (Box, 1914.) White flaked lavender. 
Elsie Edwards. (Stark, 1914.) A cream ground Mrs. 

Cuthbertson. 

52 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Elsie Herbert. (Breadmore, 1908.) White, edged pale rose. 

Emily. (House, 1912.) Rosy mauve. 

Emily Eckford Spencer. (Burpee, 1910.) Bluish purple. 

Emmie Tatham. (Stark, 1910.) Rich rose. 

Empress. (Deal, 1910.) Rosy purple self. 

Empress Eugenie. (Burpee, 1914.) Soft lavender flake 
on white. Awarded certificate of merit, American Sweet 
Pea Society, 191 1. 

Empire Crimson. (J. K. King, 1916.) A large crimson self. 

Empire White. (J. K. King, 1916.) A fine white self. 

Enchantress. (Stark, 1906.) Has proved to be synony- 
mous with Countess Spencer. 

Enid Damerum. (Lumley, 1912.) Chocolate self. 

Eric Harvey. (Unwin, 1911.) Similar to Martha Wash- 
ington. 

Eric Hinton. (Hinton Bros., 1904.) Bright pink, deeper 
towards the edges. 

Ernest King. (King, 1909.) Large orange-pink. 

Essex Beauty. (King, 1910.) Clear blue. 

Ethel Roosevelt. (Burpee, 1911.) Light rose-pink, 
striped on primrose ground. 

Etta Dyke. (Breadmore, 1908.) Synonymous with Bur- 
pee's White Spencer. 

Evangeline. (Ward, 1910.) Lavender self. 

Evelyn Hemus. (Hemus, 1908.) Cream, with a picotee 
edging of terra-cotta pink. Similar to Mrs. C. W. Bread- 
more. 

Fair Maid. (Stark, 1910.) Flesh on cream ground. 

Faith. (Stevenson, 191 7.) Pure lavender. 

Farnham Lavender. (Bide, 1916.) Pure lavender self. 

Faulkner's Primrose. (Faulkner, 191 2.) Primrose self, 
black seeded. 

Felice Lyne. (Agate, 191 3.) A lighter Stirling Stent. 

Felicity. (Bath, 1913.) Lilac self. 

Fiery Cross. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Scorching fire-red, 
or scarlet. 

53 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Flamingo. (Aldersey, 1910.) Vermilion red. 

Floradale Fairy. (Burpee, 191 5.) A new primrose self 
of great merit. 

Flora Norton Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Beautiful pale 
blue — a charming color. Not of largest size. 

Florence Morse Spencer. (Morse, 1908.) Beautiful 
light pink, deepening towards the edges. Similar to Prin- 
cess Victoria and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes. 

Florence Nightingale. (Dickson-Burpee, 1911.) Clear 
lavender self. 

Florence Spicer. (Jarman, 191 3.) Bronzy-purple self. 

Florence Wright. (Stark, 1910.) Pure white self. 

Florrie. (Bolton, 191 2.) Rosy crimson-lake. 

Flossie Jeffrey. (Breadmore, 1910.) Shrimp-pink on 
cream ground. 

Frances Deal. (Deal, 191 2.) Rosy heliotrope. 

Frank Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Lavender, suflFused mauve. 

Freda. (Breadmore, 19 10.) White self. 

Fred Fairburn. (Otter, 1910.) Pink self. 

Freda Unwin. (Unwin, 191 1.) Light blue. 

Frilled Buff. (Stark, 1916.) Cream, suflFused chamois. 

Frilled Pink. (Dobbie, 191 5.) A duplex Countess 
Spencer. 

G. C. Waud. (Cole, 1910.) Crimson self. 

General Townsend. (Hurst, 191 7.) Deep rosy-mauve. 

George Baxter. (Bolton, 1909.) Maroon, shaded violet. 

George Curzon. (Aldersey, 1912.) Dark blue flake. 
Similar to Loyalty. 

George Herbert. (Breadmore, 1907.) Bright rosy- 
carmine of largest size and best Spencer form. Synony- 
mous with John Ingman. 

George Stark. (Stark, 1910.) An intense dazzling scarlet. 

George Washington. (Henderson, 1910.) Rose-crimson 
self. 

Gertie Hart. (Damerum, 1914.) Rose-mauve standard, 
mauve wings. 

54 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Gertrude. (Cross, 19 13.) Light rose-lavender self. Sim- 
ilar to Charm. 
Giant Cream Waved. (Deal, 1910.) Primrose self. 
Gipsy Queen. (Watkins & Simpson, 1909.) Similar to 

but not so good as Ramona Spencer. 
Gladys Burt. (Unwin, 1910.) Salmon-pink, cream ground. 
Gladys Cole. (Jones & Sons, 191 1.) Lavender self. 
Glitters. (Lumley, 1910.) Orange-scarlet. 
Glory of Paris. (Clark, 1909.) Similar to Burpee's King 

Edward Spencer. 
Glow. (Bath, 191 5.) Synonymous with Robert Sydenham. 
Golden Glory. (Stevenson, 19 16.) Soft golden-orange. 
Gordon Ankentell. (Breadmore, 1909.) Flame colored. 
Gordon Keeble. (Deal, 191 3.) Soft mauve on white 

ground. Somewhat similar to Charm. 
Grace Darling. (King, 191 3.) Cream, suffused soft 

orange-pink. 
Grace Harvey. (Damerum, 1917.) Royal blue wings; 

purple standard. 
Grenadier. (Clark, 1909.) Scarlet self. 
Grey Delight. (Box, 191 3.) Pale blue self. Similar to 

Margaret Madison. 
Guy Hemus. (Hemus, 1910.) Light lavender self. 
Guy Langton. (Lumley, 1912.) Deep bronze. 
Gwendoline. (House, 1910.) Blue self. 
Harry Balfour. (Jarman, 1910.) Orange self. 
Hawlmark Gladys. (Dickson, 1914.) Light cream-pink. 

Flowers of largest size. 
Helen Chetwynd. (Sydenham, 1914-) Very similar to 

Doris Usher. 
Helen Grosvenor. (Aldersey, 1910.) Similar to Helen 

Lewis, but richer. 
Helen Lewis. (Breadmore-Watson, 1906.) Large, wavy, 

orange-colored standard; wings, rosy-salmon. 
Helen Pierce Spencer. (Cross, 191 3) A waved Helen 

Pierce. 

55 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Helen Williams. (Stark, 191 3.) Cream with rose edge. 
Helio Paradise. (Hemus, 1910.) Pale rosy heliotrope. 
Henry Ohn. (Dobbie, 1916.) A cream ground Frilled Pink. 
Hercules. (Stark, 191 1.) Large pink self. 
Hereward. (Stark, 191 1.) Pale cerise self. 
Hilary Christy. (Dickson, 1916.) Orange-scarlet self. 
Hilda. (Woodcock, 1911.) Orange-scarlet, rose wings. 
Hobbie's Crimson. (Hobbie's, 1916.) Bright crimson self. 
Holdfast Beauty. (Hemus, 191 1.) Similar to Constance 

Oliver. 
Holdfast Belle. (Hemus, 1908.) Soft pink, tinged apricot. 
Holdfast Pink. (Hemus, 1908.) Buff-pink self. 
Honor Bright. (Stevenson, 1916.) Bright salmon-red. 
Hope. (Stevenson, 191 7.) Clear soft rose. 
Horace Skipper. (Stark, 1908.) Deep rosy-pink. 
Hyacinth. (Gilbert, 1910.) Magenta self, small. 
Ian Hamilton. (Damerum, 1917). Brilliant scarlet-cerise. 
Illuminator. (Burpee, 1914.) Cerise-rose on salmon. 
loLANTHE. (Chapman-Mackereth, 1912.) White self. 
loNA. (Gilbert, 1910.) Bluish-purple self. 
Inspector. (Dobbie, 191 3.) Rich salmon. 
Irene Damerum. (Damerum, 1915.) Light violet-mauve 

blush. 
Ivory King. (Bolton, 1916.) Ivory-cream slightly suflFused 

pink. 
Iris. (Breadmore, 1912.) Light salmon self. 
Irish Belle or Dream. (Dickson-Burpee, 1912.) Rich 

lilac flushed pink. Awarded certificate of merit by the 

National Sweet Pea Society, 1911. 
Isabel. (Faulkner and Aitken, 1912.) Light salmon-pink 

self. 
IsoBEL Malcolm. (Malcolm, 191 1.) Primrose self. 
IvANHOE. (Dobbie, 1910.) Lavender self. 
Ivy Herbert. (Breadmore, 1909.) Rich plum self. 
J. B. Lowe. (Hinton, 191 7.) Orange-crimson standard; 

wings white flushed pink. 

56 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Jack Tar. (Breadmore, 1911.) Dark blue with bronze 
standard. 

Jack Unwin. (Unwin, 1909.) Rose flake, white ground. 

J. T. Taylor. (Breadmore, 1909.) Plum colored. 

James Box. (Box, 191 3.) Bright salmon self. 

Jargoon. (Aldersey, 1910.) Heliotrope self. 

Jean Ireland. (Dobbie, 1916.) Rich cream ground edged 
carmine-rose. 

Jessie Cuthbertson Spencer. (Morse, 191 5.) Cream, 
striped bright rose-pink. 

John Ingman. (Sydenham-Cole, 1905.) Rosy-carmine with 
darker shadings, large and of best form. 

John Porter. (Dickson, 1917.) An improved Edrom Beauty. 

John Ridd. (Stark, 1912.) Large purple self. 

Josephine Barnard. (Bath, 1909.) Rosy-pink; standard 
lighter than wings. 

Josephine. (Wright, 1914.) A deeper Helen Lewis. 

Juliet. (Deal, 191 2.) Pale apricot on lemon ground. 

Kathleen. (Deal, 191 3.) Rich glowing cerise. 

Kathleen Macgowan. (Breadmore, 1909.) Sky blue. 
Similar to Flora Norton Spencer. 

King Alfonso. (Breadmore, 1909.) Crimson, shaded ma- 
genta. Similar to King Edward Spencer. 

King Alfred. (Breadmore, 191 2.) Bright orange-pink. 

King Edward Spencer. (Burpee, 1909.) Almost a crim- 
son scarlet self. A magnificent flower. 

King George. (Woodcock, 1910.) Lilac-rose self. 

King George. (Woodcock, 19 17.) Rosy-lavender. 

King Manoel. (Stark, 1912.) Maroon self. 

King Mauve. (Woodcock, 1914.) Mauve self. 

King White. (Malcolm-Burpee-Dickson, 1914.) A superb 
white self. 

Kitty Clive. (Bolton, 1909.) Pale scarlet salmon. 

Kitty Crier. (Breadm.ore, 1909.) Rose and pink. 

Kowhai. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 19 12.) Ivory shaded 
apricot. 

57 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Kralissa. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Pink self. Similar to Her- 
cules. 

La Belle Sauvage. (Savage, 191 3.) Pale pink self. 

Lady Althorp. (Cole, 1906.) White, beautifully tinted 
buff. Similar to Mrs. Sankey Spencer. 

Lady Arthur. (Aldersey, 1910.) Deep cerise and salmon- 
pink. 

Lady Evelyn Eyre. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Pale 
pink, flushed salmon. 

Lady Farren. (Stark, 1909.) Rose. Somewhat similar 
to Marie Corelli. 

Lady Fisher. (Holmes, 191 7.) Blush-pink, cream ground. 

Lady Florence WiLLOUGHBY. (Gilbert, 191 1.) BufT-pink 
self. 

Lady French. (Woodcock, 19 16.) Orange-cerise and rosy- 
carmine. 

Lady Knox. (Dobbie, 1912.) A large blush cream. 

Lady Miller. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 191 3.) Buff, suffused 
salmon-pink. 

Lady Rosa. (Holmes, 1917.) Rose-pink, standard pale 
pink, cream ground. 

Lady Sarah Spencer. (Cole, 19 10.) Pink, suffused salmon. 

Lady Ursula. (Ward, 191 3.) A Helen Pierce Spencer. 

Lancashire. (Bolton, 1910.) Salmon-pink, creamy ground. 
Similar to Miriam Beaver. 

Laura Wyatt. (Dipnall, 191 3.) Brilliant orange-pink. 
Similar to King Alfred. 

Lavender G. Herbert. (Breadmore, 1909.) Lavender 
self. 

Lavender Paradise. (Hemus, 1910.) Lavenderself. Synony- 
mous with Florence Nightingale. 

Lavender Queen. (Faulkner, 1912.) Soft lilac. 

Leige. (Hobble's, 1916.) White self. 

Leslie Imber. (Unwin, 1912.) Rich blue self. Similar to 
Flora Norton Spencer. 

Liberty. (Lumley, 19 10.) Crimson self. 

58 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



LiLA. (Dipnall, 1913.) Cream, flushed lilac-mauve. 

Lilac Queen. (Bath, 1910.) Clear lilac self. 

Lilac Spencer. (Davies, 191 1.) Lilac self. 

Lilac Sunbonnet. (Aldersey, 1910.) Lilac and heliotrope. 

Lilian. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) Soft salmon-pink. 

Linda Hemus. (Hemus, 191 1.) Silvery mid-blue self. 

LiNDFiELD Surprise. (Box, 1913.) Lavender flake on 
white. 

LiZETTE LuMLEY. (Lumley, 1910.) Rose stripe on cream 
ground. 

Lord Aberconway. (Holden, 1914.) Rich red prawn. 

Lord Charles Beresford. (Alsen, 1910.) Rosy-mauve 
self. 

Lord Curzon. (Breadmore, 1913.) Rosy magenta. 

Lord Fisher. (Holmes, 1916.) Rich red maroon self. 

Lord Kitchener. (Damerum, 1916.) Cerise-orange scar- 
let. 

Lord Nelson Spencer. (Holmes-Sydenham, 191 3.) Dark- 
blue self. 

Lord Northcliffe. (Stark, 1910.) Cerise self. 

LoRNA DooNE. (Stark, 1908.) Pale blush. 

Louise Matilda. (Faulkner, 1912.) Large white self. 

LouvAiN. (Stark, 191 5.) White, suffused salmon-pink. 

Lovely Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Bright pink at base of 
standard and wings, becoming almost blush white at the 
edges. 

Loyalty. (Stark, 1912.) Violet flake on white ground. 

Lucy Hemus. (Hemus, 1908.) Light pink on cream. 

Lynette. (Dipnall, 1914.) A lighter Doris Usher. 

Mabel Baccus. (Unwin, 1914.) A Helen Pierce Spencer. 

Madge Ridgard. (Unwin, 1910.) White, flushed helio- 
trope. 

Maggie Stark. (Stark, 1909.) Orange-scarlet. Similar 
to Helen Lewis. 

Magnificent. (Stark, 1910.) Similar to Mrs. W. J. 
Unwin. 

59 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Maiden. (Malcolm, 1915-) A very light pink self. 

Majestic. (Miller, 1912.) Large cream self. 

Malcolm's Waved Cream. (Malcolm-King, 1909.) Same 

as Primrose Spencer. 
Maori Belle. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 191 1.) Lavender 

self. 
Maori Chief. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Maroon self. 
Marchioness of Tweeddale. (Bolton, 191 1.) Similar to 

Martha Washington. 
Margaret Atlee. (Morse, 191 3.) Apricot on cream 

ground. 
Margaret Fife. (Dobbie, 1916.) Bright blue self. 
Margaret Madison. (Morse-Burpee, 191 2.) Clear pale 

blue self. Certificate of merit, National Sweet Pea 

Society, 191 1. 
Marie. (Cross, 191 3.) White, flaked blue. 
Marie Corelli. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Brilliant rose- 
carmine or red. 
Marine. (Malcolm, 191 5.) A rich blue self. 
Marion. (Dipnall, 191 5.) Clear rose-cerise. 
Marion. (Dobbie, 191 1.) Pale lilac rose. 
Marjorie Damerum. (Damerum, 1914.) Light blue self. 
Marjorie Hemus. (Hemus, 1912.) White, picoteed blue. 
Marjorie Linzee. (Breadmore, 1909.) Rosy pink. 
Marjorie Willis. (Lumley, 1908.) A large, rose colored 

Spencer, resembling Marie Corelli. 
Marks Tey. (Dobbie, 191 3.) Violet with bronze wings. 
Martha Washington. (Henderson, 1910.) White edged 

and flushed rose. 
Marvel. (Bolton, 19 15.) Cream ground ros\'-pink. 
Mary Garden. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Pink on cream: 
Mary Vipan. (Eckford, 1910.) Rose self. 
Masterpiece. (Dobbie, 1910.) Lavender self, flushed rose 

on standard. 
Maud Guest. (Eckford, 1909.) Synonymous with Lady 



Althorp. 



60 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Maud Holmes. (Holmes, 1910.) Crimson self. Similar 
to King Edward Spencer. 

Mauve Paradise. (Hemus, 1910.) Light mauve self. 

Mauve Queen. (Dobbie, 1912.) Bright mauve. 

Mavis. (King, 1917.) Standard shaded khaki blush with 
rose centre, white ground. 

May Campbell. (Dobbie, 1912.) Cream, flaked carmine. 

May Day. (Stark, 1916.) Deep sky-blue self. 

May Farquhar. (Unwin, 1910.) Deep blue self. 

May Unwin. (Unwin, 1914.) Orange-scarlet. 

Melba. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1912.) Large pale salmon. 

Melody. (Dickson, 1914.) A magnificent cream-pink. 

Menie Christie. (Dobbie, 1908.) Standard purplish-car- 
mine; wings, rosy magenta. 

Mercia. (Stark, 1910.) Pale salmon self. 

Millie Maslin Spencer. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Ma- 
genta-crimson self. 

Minna Burnaby. (Stark, 1917.) Bright shrimp suffused 
salmon. Wings cream suffused pink. 

Minnie Furnell. (Alsen, 1912.) Pink with cream eye. 
Similar to Mrs. R. Hallam. 

Minnie Orst. (Deal, 1912.) Blue, veined white. 

Miriam Beaver. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Salmon-pink suf- 
fused with buff or apricot on a primrose ground. 

Miss A. Brown. (Darlington, 1909.) Synonymous with 
Asta Ohn. 

Miss BuRNiE. (Dobbie, 1916.) Standard blush-pink; wings, 
white. 

Miss J. Brown. (Aitkens, 1914.) Rich orange, scarlet wings. 

Miss Frills. (Gilbert, IQ09.) Similar to Mrs. Sankey 
Spencer. 

Miss L. E. King. (King, 1909.) White, flaked orange- 
pink. 

Miss L. Hawkes. (Agate, 1913.) Light pink. 

Miss M. A. Linzee. (Breadmore, 1908.) A bright rosy- 
pink self. 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Mistress Lumley. (Lumley, 1910.) Cream flaked. 

MoLLiE Clegg. (Breadmore, 1910.) Lavender self. 

Moneymaker. (Agate-Lumley, 1910.) White self. 

Monitor. (Bolton, 1910.) Rose flake. 

MoNTESUMA. (Bolton, 1915.) White, striped mahogany. 

Morning Mist. (King, 191 5.) Distinct French-gray self. 

Mother-o'-Pearl. (Aldersey-Sydenham, 1909.) Plum- 
bago-blue. 

Moonstone. (Aldersey, 19 10.) Pale lavender-gray self. 

Mrs. a. G. Gentle. (Sydenham, 1916.) White, heavily 
edged bright rose. 

Mrs. Alex. Ware. (Bolton, 1910.) Cream, shaded apri- 
cot. 

Mrs. Alsen. (Alsen, 1910.) Clear blue self. 

Mrs. Andrew Ireland. (Dobbie, 1909.) Similar to Apple 
Blossom Spencer, but on a buflf ground. 

Mrs. a. Malcolm. (Malcolm-Mackereth, 1909.) Cream 
self. 

Mrs. Arthur Stevenson. (Unwin, 1916.) Lilac-mauve on 
white. 

Mrs. B. Gilbert. (Gilbert, 1914.) Rose, veined. 

Mrs. Bryce. (Bolton, 1911.) White, edged buflF. 

Mrs. C. p. Tomlin. (Woodcock, 191 7.) Scarlet with a 
touch of fiery red. 

Mrs. E. a. Tanqueray. (Damerum, 191 5.) Deep cerise- 
scarlet. 

Mrs. E. C. McEwen. (Damerum, 1916.) A large cream- 
pink. 

Mrs. E. Wright. (Bolton, 1916.) White, flushed mauve, 
edged blue. 

Mrs. Fred. Kelley. (Hobbie's, 191 5.) Similar to Mrs. 
Townsend. 

Mrs. Charles Foster. (Baker, 1907.) A rosy-lavender 
Spencer. 

Mrs. Charles Mander. (Baker, 1907.) Rich magenta 
with rather darker wings. 

62 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Mrs. Cuthbertson. (Dobbie, 1912.) Pink with white 

wings. 
Mrs. C. W. Breadmore. (Breadmore, 1908.) Buflf ground 

with picotee edge of rose. 
Mrs. D. Denholm Fraser. (Unwin, 191 3.) Salmon flaked 

on white. 
Mrs. E. Cowdy. (Bolton, 191 3.) Large maroon self. 
Mrs. E. Darlington. (Darlington, 1910.) Rose, cream 

ground. 
Mrs. Duncan. (Stark, 19 10.) Crimson-scarlet self. 
Mrs. E. J. Johnstone. (Johnstone, 1910.) Salmon-buff 

self. 
Mrs. E. Noakes. (Agate-Lumley, 19 10.) Lavender self. 
Mrs. E. Otter. (Otter, 1910.) French gray, veined. 
Mrs. F. Wellesley. (Wellesley, 1910.) Cream, tinged 

blush. 
Mrs. Fred Arey. (Breadmore, 1913.) Cream, flushed pink. 
Mrs. George Charles. (Bolton, 1910.) Dark blue. 
Mrs. Gibbs Box. (Box," 1912.) Salmon-pink, cream 

ground. 
Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes. (Bolton, 1906.) A pale pink 

Spencer. Similar to Princess Victoria and Florence Morse 

Spencer. 
Mrs. Harriette Hemus. (Hemus, 1912.) Pale salmon. 
Mrs. H. Chivers. (Unwin, 1910.) Cream-pink. 
Mrs. H. E. Ward. (Aitkens, 1914.) Rich golden pink. 
Mrs. H. G. Tigwell. (Unwin, 191 1.) Similar to Ethel 

Roosevelt. 
Mrs. Herbert Hemus. (Hemus, 191 1.) Magenta. 
Mrs. Heslington. (Heslington-Dobbie, 1912.) Lavender, 

shaded mauve. 
Mrs. H. Lees. (Agate, 1913.) Bright pink. 
Mrs. H. Lowe. (Lowe, 1910.) Salmon-rose. 
Mrs. Holroyd. (Breadmore, 191 3.) Bright maroon self. 
Mrs. Henry Bell. (Bolton, 1908.) Rich apricot pink on 

cream ground. Sim.ilar to Mrs. Routzahn. 
63 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Mrs. Hugh Dickson. (Dobbie, 1910.) A beautiful rich 

apricot on cream ground, shaded pink. 
Mrs. Hugh Wormald. (Hobbie's, 191 5.) Salmon-rose, 

cream wings. 
Mrs. H. J. Damerum. (Damerum, 1915.) Deep cream self. 
Mrs. J. Balmer. (Unwin, 191 5.) Cream, heavily suffused 

reddish-pink. 
Mrs. James C. House. (House, 1912.) Mauve with pur- 
plish wings. Synonymous with Tennant Spencer. 
Mrs. J. Emmett. (Bolton, 1914.) Light apricot-pink. 
Mrs. Jessop. (Bolton, 1914.) Glowing cerise-pink. 
Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain Spencer. (Bath, 1909.) White 

striped with rose. 
Mrs. Kate Hammond. (Hobbie's, 1916.) A large satiny-pink. 
Mrs. Lancaster. (Bolton, 1910.) Cream-pink self. 
Mrs. L. C. Hockey. (Jarman, 1913.) Pale rosy-mauve. 
Mrs. McIlwrick. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1914.) Rosy mauve 

standard, mauve wings. 
Mrs. Miller. (Miller, 1910.) Primrose self. 
Mrs. R. Hallam. (Unwin, 191 1.) Soft salmon pink on 

cream ground. Similar to Doris Usher. 
Mrs. Reginald Hill. (King, 1913.) A lilac-lavender self. 

Very similar to Irish Belle. 
Mrs. Routzahn. (Burpee, 1909.) Buff or apricot ground, 

flushed and suffused with delicate pink. 
Mrs. R. W. Pitt. (Stark, 1909.) Rosy cerise. 
Mrs. Sankey Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) A black seeded 

White Spencer, showing a tinge of buff in the bud stage. 

Not of largest size. 
Mrs. S. Champion. (Bide, 1910.) Creamy-pink self. 
Mrs. Townsend. (Jarman, 1910.) White, flushed and 

edged blue. 
Mrs. T. G. Baker. (Baker, 1909.) White edged and tinted 

amber buff. Similar to Lady Althorp. 
Mrs. W. Hodges. (Damerum, 1917.) White with blue 

markings. 

64 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Mrs. W. J. Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Orange flake on white 

ground. 
Mrs. Walter Carter. (Bunting, 1909.) A lavender col- 
ored Spencer. 
Mrs. Wm. King. (King, 1908.) Synonymous with John 

Ingman. 
Mrs. W. S. Birch. (Jones, 191 1.) .Mauve-pink on cream 

ground. 
Mrs. Walter Wright Spencer. (Routzahn, 1910.) Mauve 

self. 
Mrs. T. W. Warren. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Bright 

blue, veined on white. 
Mrs. Wilcox. (Gilbert, 1909.) Similar to America Spencer. 
Mulberry. (Aldersey, 19 12.) Mulberry-red self. 
Muriel Quick. (Unwin, 1913.) Blue veined on white. 
Mystery. (Aldersey, 1912.) Pale pink, flushed salmon. 
Nancy. (Bolton, 1910.) Shrimp-pink self. 
Nancy Perkins. (Perkins-Unwin, 1910.) A Spencer Henry 

Eckford. 
Navy Blue Spencer. (Breadmore, 1909.) Blue. 
Nell Gwynne. (Stark, 1908.) Deep cream, suffused with 

salmon. Similar to Constance Oliver. 
Nettie Jenkins. (Unwin. 191 1.) Light lavender self. 
Nora Belsham. (Bide, 1914.) Pinkish-lilac. 
New Marquis. (Dobbie, 1914.) Rich mauve. 
Nora Herron. (Wright, 1914.) Deep salmon self. 
Norma. (Clark, 1909.) Blush, suffused pale salmon; pink 

at edges of petals. 
Norman Harvey. (Damerum, 1914.) White, flushed rose. 
NoRvic. (Holmes, 191 5.) Large pure white self. 
Nubian. (House, 1910.) Chocolate self. 
Olive Bolton. (Bolton, 1907.) Deep rosy pink. 
Olive Bright. (Dickson, 1913.) Rich rose. 
Old Rose. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1916.) Distinct old rose 

shade. 
Olive Ruffell. (Stark, 1908.) Bright rosv salmon. 

65 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Opal. (Aldersey, 1910.) Pale lavender-blue. 

Orange King. (Bide, 191 1.) Salmony orange. 

Orange Perfection. (Box, 191 2.) Orange with rose 

wings. 
Orange Seedling. (Hemus, 191 1.) Orange self. 
Orchid. (Malcolm-Burpee, 191 3.) Lovely shade of helio. 
Orion. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Deep reddish-crimson. 
Othello Spencer. (Burpee-Morse, 1909.) A rich, deep 

maroon of largest size. 
OvERCOMER. (Alsen, 1910.) Pink self. 
Paradise. (Sydenham, 1907.) Same as Countess Spencer. 
Paradise Carmine. (Hemus, 1907.) Synon\'mous with 

John Ingman. 
Paradise Ivory. (Hemus, 1907.) Synonymous with Queen 

Victoria Spencer. 
Paradise Orange. (Hemus, 191 1.) Salmon-orange self. 
Paradise Red Flake. (Hemus, 1908.) A waved America, 

red flaked on white ground. 
Pathfinder. (Stark, 191 5.) Similar to King Alfred. 
Peace. (Stevenson, 19 16.) Soft pink self. 
Pearl. (Aldersey, 1910.) Pure white. 
Pearl-Gray Spencer. (Morse-Burpee, 191 2.) Dove-gray 

suffused light rose. 
Pedestal. (Bolton, 191 3.) Rich cream, flaked dark rose. 
Peggy. (Lumley, 1912.) Blush. 
Peggy Mackereth. (Holmes, 1915.) Rose-lavender, 

flushed magenta. 
Peter Blair. (Bolton, 1914.) Cream, striped rose. 
Petunia Spencer. (Stark, 191 5.) Light cerise self. 
Phantom Blue. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Art shades of 

blue and lavender. 
Phyllis Bide. (Bide, 191 5.) Similar to Robert Sydenham. 
Phyllis. (Unwin, 1914.) Mrs. W. J. Unwin margined 

white. 
PicoTEE. (Watkins and Simpson, 1910.) Same as Dainty 

Spencer. 

66 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



Plashet Beauty. (Savage, 1910.) Pinkish mauve, lav- 
ender wings. 

Premier. (Stark, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self. 

President. (House, 1909.) Similar to Senator Spencer. 

Pride of Coombe. (House, 1910.) White, flaked rose. 

Primrose Beauty. (Stark, 1912.) Primrose self. 

Primrose King. (Jarman, 1910.) Primrose self. 

Primrose Spencer. (Burpee, 1908.) Deep primrose or 
creamy yellow, of largest size. Clara Curtis, Althorp 
Cream, Malcolm's Cream, and Primrose Paradise are all 
synonymous. 

Primrose Waved. (Eckford, 1908.) Same as Primrose 
Spencer. 

Prince George. (Bolton, 1912.) Lilac-rose, reddish-violet 
wings. 

Prince of Asturias. (Breadmore, 1908.) Standards deep 
chocolate; wings deep purple. Similar to Othello Spencer. 

Princess Alice. (Bath, 1909.) Same shade as the grandiflora 
Emily Eckford. 

Princess Henry of Battenberg. (Miller, 191 7.) Rosy- 
lavender self. 

Princess Juliana. (Breadmore, 1910.) Primrose self. 

Princess Katherine. (Bath, 1909.) Pale blush pink. 

Princess Mary. (Holmes-Sydenham, 191 3.) Bright silky 
blue. In way of Flora Norton Spencer. 

Princess Victoria. (Dobbie, 1908.) A light pink Spencer 
of largest size, similar to Florence Morse Spencer. 

Progress. (King, 1916.) Rich pink self. 

Purity. (Bolton, 1908.) Synonymous with White Spencer. 

Purple Prince. (Dickson-Burpee, 191 1.) Standard pur- 
plish-maroon, wings rosy-purple. 
Quaker Maid. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1914.) Dove-gray, wings 
lavender. 

Queen EiRA. (Jenkins-Parsons, 1912.) White. Black seeded. 
Queen Mary. (King, 1910.) Pink on cream ground. 
Queen Mother. (Breadmore, 191 3.) Deep lilac self. 

67 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Queen of Norway. (Bolton, 1910.) Heliotrope-mauve 

self. 
Queen Victoria Spencer. (Burpee, 1909.) A black seeded 

Primrose Spencer, flushed rose in the bud stage. 
QuEENiE. (Deal, 1909.) Ivory, tinted blush. 
Radiance. (Dickson, 1914.) Orange, scarlet wings. Very 

similar to Thomas Stevenson. 
Radiant. (Ward, 191 3.) Rich rosy-pink. 
Rainbow Spencer. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Ivory white, 

flaked rose. 
Ramona Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) White, flaked light 

pink or blush. 
Rata. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Deep crimson self. 
Red Admiral. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Crimson self. 
Red Chief. (Bolton, 1910.) Red maroon. 
Red Cross. (Stevenson, 1916.) Rich velvet>-crimson self. 
Red IsoBEL. (Malcolm, 1917.) A fine red. 
Red Star. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1912.) Crimson-scarlet self. 
Rena Oliver. (Lumley, 1910.) Light pink self. 
Rheims. (Hobbie's, 1916.) Orange-scarlet self. 
R. F. Felton. (Bolton, 1912.) Lavender self. 
Robert Sydenham. (Holmes, 191 5.) Rich orange-salmon 

self. 
Romani Rauni. (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) A buff 

ground Countess Spencer. 
RosABELLE. (Malcolm, 1912.) Distinct shade of rose. 
RosABELLE HoARE. (Uuwin, 1909.) Rose flake on white 

ground. 
Rosalind. (Clark, 1909.) A deep rose-colored Spencer. 
Rose Diamond. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Very similar to Decora- 
tor. 
Rosemary. (Aldersey and Marsden Jones, 191 3.) Similar 

to Rosabelle. 
RosiE Adams. (Stevenson-Wright, 1908.) Rosy mauve. 

Similar to Captivation Spencer. 
RosiE Gilbert. (Gilbert, 1908.) A crimson self. 

68 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



RosiE Sydenham. (Sydenham, 1906.) Synonymous with 
John Ingman. 

RosiNA. (Bolton, 191 5.) Rosy-heliotrope, cream ground. 

Rosy Rapture. (Stevenson, 1916.) White, margined rosy- 
pink. 

RoToiTi. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 19 12.) Cream, flushed 
pink. 

Royal Purple. (R. Wright, 191 3.) Rich purple. 

Royal Red. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Dark crimson self. 

Royal Scarlet. (Aldersey, 19 10.) Scarlet self. 

RowENA. (King, 1916.) A cream ground Mrs. Cuthbert- 
son. 

Ruby. (Aldersey, 191 o.) Orange-scarlet, wings reddish rose. 

Ruby. (Bolton, 1910.) Reddish magenta. 

Ruby Palmer. (Dobbie, 1914.) Bright ruby-red. 

Ruth Bide. (Bide, 1916.) Rich rosy-cerise. 

Ruth Earl. (Lumley, 1911.) Chocolate-colored self. 

Salmon Queen. (Bolton, 191 5.) Soft salmon-pink and rose. 

Scarlet Emperor. (Holmes-Sydenham, 19 12.) Bright scar- 
let self. 

Scarlet Empress. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Scarlet self. 

Scarlet Monarch. (Deal, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self. 

Scotch Pearl. (Aldersey, 19 10.) Lavender, flushed pink. 

Seafoam. (Cole, 1910.) White self. 

Seamew. (Cautley, 1912.) Pale blue. Similar to Margaret 
Madison. 

Seashell. (Aldersey, 1910.) Light lilac-rose, cream ground. 

Senator Spencer. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Deep claret or 
wine-color stripes and flakes on a light heliotrope ground. 

Shawondasee. (Hemus, 1910.) Similar to Flora Norton 
Spencer. 

Silas Cole. (Cole, 1909.) Dark maroon. 

Silver Dawn. (Cross, 191 3.) Buff, marbled lavender- 
blue. Similar to Helen Pierce Spencer. 

Silver Wings. (Stark, 1908.) Similar but not so good as 
Ramona Spencer. 

69 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Sincerity. (Deal, 1914.) Rich deep cerise. 
Skyline. (Dickson, 1914.) Clear soft blue. 
Snowflake. (Breadmore, 1910.) White self. 
SouTHCOTE Blue. (Sutton, 191 3.) Pale blue self. 
Stanley Crisp. (Dipnall, 191 5.) White self. 
Steeton. (Bolton, 19 14.) Terra-cotta pink. 
Stevenson's White. (Stevenson, 191 3.) White self. 
Stirling Stent. (Agate, 191 i.) Bright salmon-orange. 
Suffragette. (House, 1910.) Lavender flake on white 

ground. 
Sultan. (Hobbies, 1914.) Deep maroon. 
Sunproof Crimson. (Sydenham-Holmes, 1910.) Similar 

to King Edward Spencer. 
Sunproof King Alfonso. (Breadmore, 1910.) Similar 

to King Edward Spencer. 
Sunrise. (Gilbert, 1909.) An orange self, but not so good 

as Helen Lewis. 
Surprise. (Bolton, 191 7.) Rich pink, or shrimp-pink. 
Sutton's Queen. (Sutton-Rothera, 1908.) Buff ground, 

flushed and edged pink. 
Sutton's Sunproof Crimson. (Sutton, 1913.) Crimson self. 
Syeira Lee. (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) A rich salmon 

pink on a buff ground. 
Tarboosh. (Aldersey, 19 10.) Red self. 
Tarbrush. (Aldersey, 1910.) Dark claret. 
Tea Rose. (Dobbie, 191 7.) Salmon-rose. 
Tennant Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish mauve of 

largest size and best Spencer form. 
The Abbott. (Stark, 1913.) French gray, flaked chocolate. 
The Hon. Delia Spencer. (Cole, 1910.) Light magenta. 
The King. (Dobbie, 1909.) Similar to Burpee's King 

Edward Spencer. 
The Lady Eveline. (Malcolm, 1916.) Rich rosy-mauve. 
The Marquis. (Dobbie, 1908.) Rosy heliotrope. 
The President. (Dickson-Burpee, 1916.) Dazzling orange 

scarlet self. 

70 



SPENCER VARIETIES 



The Squire. (Faulkner, 1912.) Crimson-scarlet self. 

The Sultan. (Bide, 1910.) Maroon self. 

Thomas Stevenson. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1911.) Rich 

orange-scarlet. 
Thora. (Stark, 1910.) Pale pink with darker edges. 
Tom Bolton. (Bolton, 1910.) Dark maroon self. 
Topaz. (Aldersey, 19 10.) Ivory self. 
Tortoiseshell. (Aldersey, 191 3.) Shrimp-pink. 
Triumph Spencer. (Bolton, 1909.) Salmon-pink bi-color. 
True Blue. (Aldersey, 1912.) Indigo-blue self. 
Unwin's Cream. (Unwin, 191 7.) Deep primrose. 
Unwin's Lavender. (Unwin, 1917.) Soft lavender. 
Veiled Bride. (Morse, 1914.) White, marbled pink. 
Vera Jeffery. (Breadmore, 1908.) A pale pink. 
Vera Lees. (Lees, 19 13.) Buff, suffused salmon-pink. 
Verdun. (Bolton, 191 7.) Standard rich rose-crimson; 

wings deep rose. 
Vermilion Brilliant. (Dickson-Burpee, 1912.) Bright 

scarlet self. 
Veronique. (Lumley, 191 1.) Bluish-purple, veined. 
Vesuvius. (King, 191 5.) Similar to Scarlet Emperor. 
Victory. (Stevenson, 19 16.) Rich salmon-red. 
Victory. (Bolton, 1917.) Standard heliotrope; wings 

lavender. 
Victor Unwin. (Unwin, 191 3.) Chocolate self. 
Viola Ratcliffe. (Breadmore, 1910.) Rosy-lavender self. 
Violet Crabb. (Bide, 1.911.) Reddish lavender. 
Walter P. Wright. (Unwin, 19 12.) Light lavender. 
Warrior. (Malcolm, 191 5.) Rich red; wings rosy-pink. 
Warrior. (Stevenson, 19 16.) Deep salmon-red self. 
Waterwitch. (Bunting, 191 1.) Cream ground, picotee 

edge. 
Waved Cream. (Malcolm-Mackereth, 1909.) Cream self. 
Waverley Spencer. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish maroon, 

wings rosy-purple. 
Wedgwood. (Dickson-Burpee, 1914.) Light-blue self. 

71 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Wedding Bells. (J. K. King, 1916.) Pale rosy-lilac self. 
Wenvoe Castle. (Gerhold, 1910.) Rosy mauve. 
White Perfection. (Damerum, 1916.) Large white self. 
White Queen. (Stark, 1912.) Large white self. 
White Spencer. (Burpee, 1908.) Pure white, of largest 

size. It is identical with Etta Dyke. 
White Waved. (Eckford, 1908.) Similar to White Spencer. 
Winifred Deal. (Deal, 1910.) Similar to Dainty Spencer. 
Winifred Savage. (Savage, 1910.) Purplish heliotrope. 
Winifred Unwin. (Unwin, 1912.) Pale lavender self. 
Winnie Jones. (Stark, 1909.) Cream flaked rose. 
Winsome. (Deal, 1910.) Pink, suffused heliotrope. 
W. R. Beaver. (Bolton, 1910.) Claret stripe on gray 

ground. Similar to Senator Spencer. 
W. T. Hutchins. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Light apricot 

or buflF overlaid with a beautiful blush pink. 
Yankee. (House, 1909.) An America Spencer. 
Zara. (Hemus, 1908.) Salmon-pink. 
Zarina Spencer. (Holmes-Sydenham, 191 3.) A waved 

Zarina. 
Zebra. (Hemus, 1910.) Rosy mauve flake, white ground. 
Zephyr. (Hemus, 1908.) A silvery blue self. Similar to 

Flora Norton Spencer. 
Zillah Smith. (Unwin, 1914.) Cream, margined rose. 



72 



UNWIN VARIETIES 



UNWIN TYPE OF SWEET PEAS 
These resemble the Spencer type, having the same 
wavy form, but are not so large, the original variety 
being Gladys Unwin. The vines are thrifty and pro- 
duce abundantly the handsome waved flowers which 
make most attractive bouquets. Nora Unwin is 
especially fine in form, and Frank Dolby is to be classed 
among the best lavender or light blues. 

A. J. Cook. (Unwin, 1907.) Violet mauve self. Variable. 

Anglian Blue. (King, 1909.) A waved Flora Norton. 

Blush Queen. (Dobbie, 1907.) Pale blush. 

Chrissie Unwin. (Unwin, 1908.) Rosy-red self. 

E. J. Castle. (Unwin, 1907.) Light rosy carmine, with 

light salmon shading. 
Frank Dolby. (Unwin, 1907.) Lavender blue. 
Gladys Unwin. (Unwin, 1905.) Pale pink, beautifully 

waved. 
Jack Unwin. (Unwin, 1909.) Rose flake on white ground. 
Miss E. F. Drayson. (Unwin, 1908.) Crimson-scarlet self. 
Miss Frills. (Gilbert, 1909.) White shaded blush. 
Mrs. Alfred Watkins. (Unwin, 1907.) Pink shading 

to blush. 
Nora Unwin. (Unwin, 1907.) Pure white, beautifully 

waved. 
Phoenix. (King, 1909.) White, flushed and shaded lilac. 
Phyllis Unwin. (Unwin, 1906.) Rosy carmine self. 
Pink Pearl. (Unwin, 1907.) Rich pink self. 



73 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



LIST OF GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS 
Since the introduction of the Spencer type very little 
has been done to improve the grandifloras, hybridizers 
devoting their energies to the further development of 
the Spencers, but although the latter is now the most 
popular, there is still a good demand for the older type. 

Abbreviations: H., Hooded Standard; S. H., Slightly Hooded 
Standard; E., Erect Standard. 

An asterisk (*) denotes that the variety is nearly extinct. 

Two asterisks (**) mean that the variety is little known, but listed 
in a few catalogs. 



Acme. 



(H. J. Jones, 1908.) 




sWWTtS?'"^ 



EcKFORD's "Blanche Burpee." 

A typical bloom of the erect or expanded 

type. 

Albatross.** (Dobbie, 1907.) 
variety. S. H. 

74 



Blush white. S. H. 

Admiration. (Bur- 

. pee, 1900.) Beau- 
tiful pink laven- 
der. H. 

Adonis.* (Carter, 
1884.) Standard 
carmine pink with 
rosy wings. E. 

Admiral Togo.** 
(Breadmore, 1906.) 
Extremely dark 
violet maroon. H. 

Agn es Eckford. 
(Eckford, 1907.) 
A soft blush pink, 
self color. H. 

Agnes Johnston. 
(Eckford, 1903.) 
Standards are rose 
pink, shaded cream; 
pinkish buff wings. 
E. 
A pure white black-seeded 



GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS 



Alba Magnifica.* (Henderson, 1890.) A pure white self. 
E. 

Albion.** (Stark, 1906.) Ivory white. 

Alice Eckford.* (Eckford, 1896.) Creamy white, with 
tinge of purplish violet. E. 

America. (Vaughan, 1896 ) White striped red. E. 

American Belle.* (Burpee, 1894.) Standard bright rose; 
wings white with carmine spots. Now discarded. E. 

American Queen.* (Burpee, 1902.) Standard clear sal- 
mon red; wings bright deep rose. E. 

Annie B. Gilroy.** (Eckford, 1909.) Deep cerise. 

Annie Stark.** (Stark, 1906.) White, delicately flushed 
with pale pink. 

Apple Blossom. (Eckford, 1887.) Shaded and edged soft 
rose on white. H. 

Aurora. (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, striped orange 
salmon. S. H. 

Autocrat.** Better known under the name of Indigo King. 

Azure Fairy. (Bath, 1910.) French gray, watered blue. 

Baden Powell.** (Jones & Son, 1901.) Similar to Cap- 
tain of the Blues. S. H. 

Baker's Scarlet.** (Baker, 1909.) Scarlet self. E. 

Beacon. (Bolton, 1906.) Standard cerise with creamy 
wings. E. 

Black.* (Noble, Cooper & Bolton, 1880.) Generally 
known as Invincible Black. E. 

Blackbird.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) Blackish maroon. 
Synonymous with Midnight. S. H. 

Black Knight. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard dark claret, 
wings brownish purple. E. 

Black Michael. (Eckford, 1905.) Bright shining reddish 
maroon. E. 

Blanche Burpee. (Eckford, 1895.) Snowy white. E. 

Blanche Ferry. (Ferry, 1889.) Standard bright rose- 
pink; wings creamy white. E. 

Blue Belle. (Bide, 1909.) Bright blue. 

75 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Blue Edged.* (Trevor Clarke-Carter, 1883.) White and 

pink edged with blue. E. 
Blue Hybrid.* Probably identical with Blue Edged. E. 
Blushing Beauty.* (Eckford, 1893.) Soft rose-pink. H. 
Bolton's Pink. (Bolton, 1905.) Rich orange-pink. E. 
BoREATTON.* (Eckford, 1887.) Dark maroon self. E. 
Bouquet. (Deal, 1912.) A pink Helen Pierce. 
Bride of Niagara.* (Vick, 1895.) Bright carmine rose 

standard; wings white, tinged pink; double flowers. E. 
Bridesmaid. (Vaughan, 1904.) Carmine shading to rose 

and pink; wings of a lighter shade. E. 
Brilliant.* (Burpee, 1897.) Crimson scarlet. S. H. 
Brilliant Blue. (Burpee, 1907.) The standard is very 

large, slightly hooded, of the richest dark navy blue; the 

shaded purple wings are deep Oxford blue. E. 
Britannia.** (Dobbie, 1904.) White, flaked crimson. S. 

H. 
Bronze King.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1894.) Coppery stand- 
ard, ivory white wings. E. 
Bronze Prince.* (Eckford-Bull, 1885.) Standard rose 

flushed bronze scarlet with pale blush wings. E. 
Butterfly.* (Sutton, 1878.) White, edged and shaded 

with blue. H. 
California.* (Lynch, 1897.) Very pale pink, self colored. 

H. 
Calypso.* (Eckford, 1900.) Magenta, and veined mauve. 

: E. 

Caprice.** (Johnson, 1906.) White, delicately shaded 

pale pink. S. H. 
Captain Clarke.* (Clarke-Sharpe, date of introduction 

unknown.) White, flushed and penciled with carmine; 

wings blue edged. E. 
Captain of the Blues. (Eckford, 1890.) Standard bright 

purple blue; wings paler blue. E. 
Captivation. (Eckford, 1897.) Of a deep magenta shade. 

S. H. 

76 



GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS 



Cardinal.* (Eckford, 1885.) Scarlet crimson. E. 

Carmen Sylva.* (Laxton, 1892.) Claret shading to white; 
wings light lilac. E. 

Carmine Rose.** (Muskett.) Date of introduction not 
known. Better known as Princess Beatrice. Color, light 
pink. E. 

Celestial.* (Lorenz, 1896.) Standard light mauve; wings 
lavender. H. 

Chancellor.* (Eckford, 1898.) Standard bright orange; 
wings bright orange pink. H. 

CocciNEA. (Eckford, 1 90 1.) Self colored, bright rich cherrv. 
E. 

Colonist.* (Eckford, 1898.) Soft lilac, overlaid bright 
rose. S. H. , 

Columbia.* (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, suffused pur- 
ple and penciled pink. E. 

Coquette. (Eckford, 1896.) Deep primrose, shaded with 
lavender. S. H. 

Coral Gem.** (Vaughan, 1907.) Light coral self. H. 

Coronation.** (Introducer and year of introduction un- 
known.) Blush with pink at the back of the standard. 

Coronet.* (Walker-Hutchins, 1898.) White striped with 
orange pink. E. 

Countess Cadogan. (Eckford, 1899.) Bluish purple stand- 
ard and clear blue wings. E. 

Countess of Aberdeen.* (Eckford, 1896.) Self colored 
soft pink. H. 

Countess of Lathom. (Eckford, 1900.) A soft cream tint, 
heavily shaded with flesh pink in the center of the standard. 
H. 

Countess of Powis.* (Eckford, 1897.) Glowing orange, 
suffused with purple. E. 

Countess of Radnor. (Eckford, 189 1.) Light lavender 
with faint purplish tinge. H. 

Countess of Shrewsbury.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose stand- 
ard with white wings. E. 

77 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Cream of Brockhampton.** (Foster, year of introduction 
unknown.) A clear cream self. 

Creole.* (Burpee, 1896.) The standard is a light-pinkish 
lavender with wings of pure lavender. E. 

Crown Jewel. (Eckford, 1896.) Primrose ground, veined 
with violet. H. 

Crown Princess of Prussia.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1869.) 
Deep pink shading to very light pink. For some time this 
was a popular variety with florists. E. 

Cyril Breadmore.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Rosy carmine. 
S. H. 

Dainty. (Burpee, 1903.) The flowers on first opening 
appear to be white, but quickly change to white with pink 
edge, making a most charming contrast; there is more pink 
on the edges of the standard than on the edges of the wings. 
S. H. 

David R. Williamson. (Eckford, 1905.) The large stand- 
ard is of a rich indigo blue, while the wings are slightly 
lighter in shade. S. H. 

Dawn.** (Stark.) Standard light crimson magenta; 
wings white shaded crimson. S. H. 

Daybreak.* (Burpee, 1896.) White marbled rose and crim- 
son. E. 

Delicata.* (Stark, 1906.) White tinted with pink. S. H. 

Delight.* (Eckford, 1889.) White crested with crimson. 
This variety never became popular. E. 

Devonshire Cream.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Cream 
self. E. 

Dolly Varden.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard bright pur- 
ple-magenta shading lighter, almost white on the sides and 
penciled with heavy maroon at the base. H. 

Domino.** (Henderson, 1905.) Known by its more popu- 
lar name, "Speckled Beauty," — which is described as hav- 
ing primrose ground marbled with crimson. 

Dora Breadmore.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A primrose self, 
shaded buff. S. H. 

78 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



(Eckford, 1903.) Large, pure white 



Dorothy Eckford. 

flower. S. H. 
Dorothy Tennant. (Eckford, 1892.) Rosy mauve. H. 
Dorothy Vick.** (Vick, 1897.) Standard scarlet, wings 

crimson, produces double flowers. E. 
Douglas Breadmore.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A bright 

purple flake. S. H. 
Duchess of Edinburgh.* (Eckford, 1887.) Crimson. E. 
Duchess of 

Sutherland.* 

(Eckford, 1898.) 

Pearly white, 

suffused light 

pink. H. 
Duchess of 

Westminster. 

(Eckford, 1900.) 

Apricot flushed 

pink; wings rose 

pink. S. H. 
Duchess of 

York.* (Eck- 



ford, 
White 
with 
purple. 
Dudley 



1895.) 
striped 
pinkish 
E. 
Lees.** 




Dorothy Eckford. 
Representing the slightly hooded type. 



(Breadmore, 1908.) A deep maroon. S. H. 
Duke of Clarence.* (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy claret. H. 
Duke of Sutherland. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard deep 

claret; wings deep violet blue. H. 
Duke OF Westminster. (Eckford, 1899.) Rosy claret. H. 
Duke of York.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard rosy pink; 

wings white. E. 
Earl Cromer. (Eckford, 1907.) Standard reddish mauve; 

wings large, of the same deep rich mauve. H. 
79 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Earliest of All. (Burpee, 1898.) Flowers fully ten days 
earlier than Extra Early Blanche Ferry, bearing a profusion 
of beautifully tinted flowers. Standard bright, rosy pink; 
wings creamy white, suflFused pale rose. Planted under 
glass in September, the vines begin to bloom in Novem- 
ber. E. 

Earliest of All Re-Selected Extreme Early. (Burpee, 
1902.) This strain is as much earlier than Earliest of All 
as that variety is ahead of Extra Early Blanche Ferry. 
The plants come into full flower when only twelve inches 
high. Christmas Pink is similar. E. 

Earliest White. (Burpee, 1906.) This was discovered 
in a field of the Re-Selected Burpee's Earliest of All. There 
was only one plant and this produced pure white flowers. 
A crop planted July 12th came in bloom August 20th, while 
the plants of Mont Blanc planted on the same day showed 
no sign of bloom. The plant is unusually sturdy and of 
dwarf and even growth. The best white for greenhouse. E. 

Eastern Queen.* (Introducer and year of introduction 
unknown.) Cream ground, slightly flaked. 

Elegance. (Stark, 1909.) White, feathered orange. 

Elfrida.* (Johnson, 1904.) Primrose, lightly striped rose. 
E. 

Eliza Eckford.* (Eckford, 1895.) Flesh pink, suffused 
rose and white. H. 

Emily Eckford. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy mauve changing 
to light blue. S. H. 

Emily Henderson. (Henderson, 1894.) White. E. 

Emily Lynch.* (Lynch, 1897.) Standard scarlet rose; 
wings primrose tinged pink. H. 

Empress of India.* (Eckford, 1891.) Standard rose, with 
white wings. E. 

Etna.* (Laxton, 1892.) A dark brownish crimson and vio- 
let. E. 

Evelyn Breadmore.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Blush white, 
slightly tinged pink. S. H. 
80 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Evelyn Byatt. (Watkins & Simpson, 1906.) Standard 
scarlet orange, with rosy wings. E. 

Evening Star.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose, shaded h'ght 
pink. E. 

Exquisite. (Bath, 1912.) White, veined blue. 

Fairy Queen.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1872.) White with 
faint carmine pencilings on throat. E. 

Fascination.* (Eckford, 1900.) Magenta mauve; wings 
deep mauve. H. 

Fashion.* (Burpee, 1899.) A soft shade of reddish lav- 
ender, deepening at base of standard. Similar to Colonist. 
H. 

Finetta Bathurst.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Pure 
white. E. 

Firefly.* (Eckford, 1893.) Scarlet crimson. E. 

Flora Norton. (Vaughan, 1904.) A beautiful rich lav- 
ender, almost a bright blue. E. 

Florence Frazer.** (Vaughan, 1904.) Standard bright 
crimson rose; wings white tinged pink. E. 

Florence Molyneaux.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Cream flaked 
with rose. E. 

Gaiety.* (Eckford, 1893.) Standard flaked with cerise 
pink; wings striped rosy purple. S. H. 

George Gordon.* (Eckford, 1901.) Claret red, self 
colored, but turns to a dull purple with age. H. 

Gladys Deal.** An English name for the American va- 
riety, Mrs. Geo. Higginson. S. H. 

Gladys French.** (Unwin, 1909.) A light blue Helen 
Pierce. 

Golden Gate.* (Burpee, 1897.) Pinkish mauve and lav- 
ender. S. H. 

Golden Gleam.* (Sunset Co., 1897.) Color creamy yellow. 
Nearly identical with Mrs. Eckford. S. H. 

Golden Rose. (Burpee, 1902.) The ground color is a 
clear primrose yellow, beautifully flushed with rosy pink- 
S. H. 

81 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Gorgeous. (Burpee, 1899.) Standard salmon-orange; 

wings heavily suffused orange-salmon. E. 
Gracie Greenwood.* (Eckford, 1902.) Cream shaded 

with delicate pink. S. H. 
Grand Blue.* (Eckford, 1886.) Clear, light blue color, 

same as Imperial Blue. H. 
Gray Friar.* (Burpee, 1896.) Heavily shaded with 

watered purple markings on creamy white ground. H. 
G. W. Kerr. (Baker's, 1909.) Coral pink. 
Hannah Dale.** (Dobbie, 1908.) A large, rich maroon 

self. S. H. 
Harold. (House, 1910.) Primrose self. 
Helen Pierce. (Morse, 1905.) The color is very bright 

blue, mottled on pure white. Decidedly the best mottled 

variety. E. 
Henry Eckford. (Eckford, 1906.) Bright, soft, flaming 

orange, deepening slightly in the center of the flower. 

This variety requires shading with cheesecloth to prevent 

scalding in bright weather. E. 
Herbert Smith.** (Sydenham, 1908.) A bi-color after 

the style of Evelyn Byatt. E. 
Her Majesty. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy pink. H. 
Hester.** (Hemus, 1907.) Blue striped, and appears to 

be the same as Marbled Blue. E. 
Hetty Green.* (Ward-Bolton, 1907.) Bright orange scar- 
let; wings rosy crimson. E. 
Hilda Jeffery.** (Breadmore, 1907.) Color creamy rose. 

S. H. 
H. J. R. DiGGES.* (Eckford, 1908.) Bright claret shaded 

maroon. S. H. 
Hon. F. Bouverie. (Eckford, 1899.) Pinkish salmon 

standard; wings shaded to a lighter salmon-buff. S. H. 
Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon. (Eckford, 1901.) A beautiful 

primrose color. E. 
Horace Wright. (Eckford, 1907.) A self. A rich violet 

blue color. S. H. 

82 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Ignea.** (Eckford, 1892.) Bright scarlet crimson with 
purple wings. S. H. 

Imperial Blue.* (Eckford, 1886.) Blue and mauve, same 
as Grand Blue. H. 

Imperial Purple.* (Introducer and date of introduction 
unknown.) Purple with blue shading. E. 

Inconstancy.** (Ferry, 1902.) White and primrose flow- 
ers on same plant. E. 

Indigo King.* (Eckford, 1885.) Dark maroon purple 
standard with indigo blue wings. Autocrat is synonymous. 
H. 

Invincible Black.* (Introducer unknown, 1871.) Dark 
claret. E. 

Invincible Blue.* 
(Laxton, 1888.) 
Dark blue. E. 

Invincible Car- 
mine.* (Laxton, 
1885.) A brilliant, 
glowing carmine. 
E. 

Invincible Scar- 
let.* (S. Brown- 
Carter, 1866.) 
Crimson scarlet. 
E. S. 

Invincible Scarlet 
Striped with 
White.* (Intro- 
ducer and date of 
introduction unknown.) Red, striped with white. 

Invincible Striped.* (Carter, 1874.) Crimson striped 
white. E. 

IsA Eckford.* (Eckford, 1886.) White suffused rosy pink. E. 

Ivy Miller.** (Miller, 1908.) White edged with blue. 
S. H. Similar to Maid of Honor. 
83 




Janet Scott. 

Hooded type. 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



James Grieve.** (Eckford, 1908.) A large sulphur yellow. 

E. 
Janet Scott. (Burpee, 1903.) This might be called a new 

shade of rich pink. The unusual size of the wings with the 

large, substantial, hooded standard, gives the flower an ap- 
pearance of enormous size. H. 
Jeannie Gordon. (Eckford, 1902.) Standard rose, shaded 

cream; wings creamy suffused rose. S. H. 
Jessie Cuthbertson. (Dobbie, 1903.) Flaked and striped 

salmon rose on a cream ground. S. H. 
Jet. (Aldersey-Sydenham, 1909.) Similar to Midnight. 
Josephine White.** (Ferry, 1902.) White. E. 
J. T. Crier.* (Breadmore, 1907.) A lavender self. 
Juanita.* (Burpee, 1896.) Color pure white, delicately 

lined and striped with pale lavender.^ H. 
Katherine Tracy.* (Ferry, 1896.) Soft rosy pink, 

lighter at edges. E. 
King Edward VII. (Eckford, 1903.) A bright crimson 

self, large, with three flowers borne on a strong, stout stem. 

S. H. 
Lady Aberdare.* (Breadmore, 1904.) Soft light pink, 

self colored. H. 
Lady Beaconsfield.* (Eckford, 1892.) Standard salmon 

pink; wings primrose yellow. E. 
Lady Cooper.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A clear, lavender 

self. S. H. 
Lady Grisel Hamilton. (Eckford, 1899.) Light lavender 

standard with azure blue wings. H. 
Lady Mary Currie. (Eckford, 1898.) A deep orange 

pink. H. 
Lady M. Ormsby-Gore. (Eckford, 1901.) Pale buflF tipped 

deep buff, overlaid with delicate pink. H. 
Lady Nina Balfour. (Eckford, 1897.) Delicate mauve 

shaded dove gray. H. 
Lady Penzance.* (Eckford, 1894.) Rose pink, tinged 

orange-salmon. H. 

84 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Lady Skelmersdale.* (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine 

standard, shading to white. S. H. 
Lemon Queen.* (Eckford, 1892.) White tinted with lemon 

and blush. E. 
Light Blue and Purple.* (Introducer unknown, 1700.) 

Dark maroon with blue shadings. E. 
Little Dorrit.* (Eckford, 1897.) Standard clear rosy 

pink; wings white, suffused rose. E. 
Lord Kenyon. (Eckford, 1900.) Bright rose pink. H. 
Lord Nelson. (House, 1907.) A rich, deep navy blue. 

This is identical with Burpee's Brilliant Blue. E. 
Lord Rosebery. (Eckford, 1902.) A self colored rosy 

magenta. H. 
Lottie Eckford. (Eckford, 1894.) White ground, del- 
icately edged lavender blue. H. 
Lottie Hutchins.* (Burpee, 1898.) Flaked pink on cream 

ground. S. H. 
Lovely. (Eckford, 1895.) Pink; wings delicate rose. H. 
LuMiNOSA. (Eckford, 191 1.) Coral-colored self. 
Madame Carnot.* (Laxton, 1892.) A blue self. H. 
Madeline Cole. (Stark, 1910.) Pale lavender. 
Maggie Gerring. (Eckford, 191 i.) Cream self. 
Maid of Honor. (Burpee, 1897.) Light blue on a white 

ground, shaded and edged. Similar to Lottie Eckford but 

a better flower. S. H. 
Majestic.* (Burpee, 1901.) Standard is a deep rose pink, 

while wings are also deep rose, but rather softer in 

tone. H. 
Marbled Blue.** (Sutton, 1906.) White, striped and 

flaked blue. E. 
Marchioness of Cholmondeley. (Eckford, 1904.) Soft 

shade of cream overlaid with pink. H. 
Mars.* (Eckford, 1895.) Rich crimson self. H. 
May Perrett.** (Eckford, 1908.) Ivory flushed with 

buff. E. 
Memento.** Synonymous with Flora Norton. E. 

85 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Meteor.* (Eckford, 1895.) Orange-salmon standard with 

pink wings. E. 
Mid Blue. (Dobbie, 1909.) Of medium size; color deep, 

sky-blue. E. 
Midnight ("Jet"). (Burpee, 1908.) Standard deep pur- 
plish maroon, almost black; wings darkest claret. S. H. 
Mikado.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose crimson striped with 

white. H. 
Mildred Ward.** (Sydenham, 1907.) Orange-scarlet. E. 
Millie Maslin. (Sydenham, 1908.) Rich rosy crimson 

self. Very much deeper than Prince of Wales. S. H. 
Mima Johnston.** (Eckford, 1908.) Bright rose carmine. 

E. 
Miss Bostock.** (Hemus, 1907.) Cream and pink. H. 
Miss H. C. Philbrick.** (Stark, 1905.) Mauve overlaid 

with clear blue. We consider this identical with Flora 

Norton. E. 
Miss Hunt.* (Eckford, 1887.) Standard pale carmine 

salmon; wings soft pink. E. 
Miss WiLLMOTT. (Eckford, 1901.) Rich orange pink; 

delicately shaded rose. S. H. 
Modesty. (Burpee, 1898.) In strong sunlight it is seem- 
ingly a silvery white, but the suffused pink tint is shown on 

closer examination. H. 
Monarch.* (Eckford, 1891.) Standard bronzy crimson; 

wings, violet. H. 
Mont Blanc. (Benary, 1900.) Extremely early flowering; 

white self, Florence Denzer is synonymous. E. 
Mother o' Pearl.** (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) Silvery 

lavender. S. H. 
Mrs. a. Malcolm.** (Malcolm-King, 1909.) Primrose 

self. E. 
Mrs. Bieberstedt.** (Bieberstedt, 1908.) A lovely deep 

lavender self. S. H. 
Mrs. Charles Masters.** (Eckford, 1909.) Standard 

rosy salmon; wings cream. 

86 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Mrs. Collier. (Dobbie, 1907.) In form and substance 

it resembles Dorothy Eckford. The flowers are large, 

coming in threes and fours on long, stiff stems and of a rich, 

primrose tint, entirely free from any trace of pink. S. H. 
Mrs. Dugdale. (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine rose, 

with faint markings of primrose. S. H. 
Mrs. Eckford. (Eckford, 1891.) A primrose self. S. H. 
Mrs. E. Oilman. (Eckford, 1909.) Light rose bicolor. 
Mrs. Fitzgerald.** (Eckford, 1900.) Buff flushed with 

a tinge of pink. Synonymous with Stella Morse. S. H. 
Mrs. George Higginson, Jr. (Vaughan, 1904.) A very 

delicate lavender. E. 
Mrs. Gladstone.* (Eckford, 1890.) Soft flesh pink. E. 
Mrs. H. Kendall-Barnes.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Standard 

rich apricot; wings creamy buff. S. H. 
Mrs. Jos. Chamberlain. (Eckford, 1895.) Ground color is 

a clear silvery white, brightly striped soft rosy pink. S. H. 
Mrs. Knight-Smith.** (Eckford, 1904.) A pink self, 

hooded, with large open wings. Not fixed. H. 
Mrs. R. F. Felton.** (Bolton, 1907.) Primrose yellow 

self. Synonymous with Mrs. Collier. S. H. 
Mrs. R. M.Shelton.** (Baker, 1909.) Rosy carmine self. H. 
Mrs. R. Massey. (Bide, 1910.) Pinkish lilac, buff ground. 
Mrs. Sankey.* (Eckford, 1890.) Pure white: black 

seeded. H. 
Mrs. Walter Wright. (Eckford, 1903.) The standard is 

a beautiful shade of mauve, clear and bright, while the 

wings are a bright caerulean blue, slightly shaded with the 

mauve color of the standard. H. 
Navy Blue. (Burpee, 1899.) General color effect dark 

blue; standard brilliant royal purple; wings pure violet; 

the whole flower elegantly veined in sharp relief. S. H. 
New Countess. (Burpee, 1897.) Pure light lavender 

throughout both on standard and wings. An Improved 

Countess of Radnor in which is eliminated the reddish cast 

in standard. H. 

87 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Nigger.* (House, 1905.) Very dark maroon, nearly black. 

H. 
Novelty.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard orange rose; wings 

delicate mauve. E. 
Nymphaea.* (Vaughan, 1904.) White turning to pink. 

S. H. 
Oddity.* (Burpee, 1896.) Pale carmine edged with bright 

rose. S. H. 
Orange Prince.* (Eckford, 1886.) Bright orange pink. 

E. 
Oregonia.* (Walker, 1895.) White striped with brownish 

red. S. H. 
Oriental.* (Burpee, 1898.) Rich orange flowers. H. 
Othello. (Eckford, 1899.) A deep maroon self color; 

very large size; standard slightly hooded. S. H. 
Ovid.* (Eckford, 1894.) Bright rosy pink with crimson 

veins in both standard and wings. H. 
Painted Lady.* (Introducer not known, 1700.) Standard 

rose; wings white tinged with pink. E. 
Peach Blossom.* (Eckford, 1894.) Light salmon pink and 

buff. E. 
Perdita. (Bath, 1910.) White, marbled pink. 
Phenomenal. (Henderson, 1905.) White, shaded and 

edged lilac. E. 
Pink Friar.* (Burpee, 1899.) White, lightly marbled 

light rose crimson. Large size. H. 
Pink Snapdragon.* (Burpee, 1903.) Soft shell pink. 
Prima Donna. (Eckford, 1896.) A pure pink self. H. 
Primrose.* (Eckford, 1889.) Primrose self. E. 
Prince Edward of York. (Eckford, 1897.) Crimson 

scarlet standard. Crimson wings; large open form. E. 
Prince Olaf. (Dobbie, 1908.) The bold, effective flowers 

are striped and mottled bright blue on white ground; of 

good size with erect standard. E. 
Prince of Wales. (Eckford, 1898.) A large, bright rose 

self. S. H. 

88 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Princess Beatrice.* (Hurst, 1883.) A light pink self. 

Syn., Carmine Rose. E. 
Princess Louise.* (Introducer and date of introduction 

unknown,— probably first offered in 1895.) Magenta-pink 

standard; lilac wings. E. 
Princess Maud of Wales.** (Eckford, 1906.) A pale 

colored Coccinea. E. 
Princess May.* (Laxton, 1893.) Pale mauve standard; 

lavender wings. E. 
Princess of Wales.* (Eckford, 1885.) White striped 

mauve and purple. H. 
Princess Victoria.** (Eckford, 1891.) Cerise standard; 

wings more pink. E. 
Purple.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.) 

A rich shade coming between Boreatton and Black. E. 
Purple Brown.* An old dark-striped form. 
Purple King.** (Eckford, 1908.) Purple, shaded indigo. 

E. 

Purple Prince.* (Eckford, 1886.) Standard dark ma- 
roon; wings purple. H. 

Purple Striped.* (Introducer and date of introduction 
unknown.) An old variety; purple striped on white 
ground. E. 

Queen Alexandra. (Eckford, 1906.) An intense bright 

scarlet self. E. 
Queen of England.* (Eckford, 1887.) White self. E. 
Queen of Pinks.** (Sutton, 1901.) Pure salmon pmk. 

c u 

Queen of Spain. (Eckford, 1907-) A new pearly pink 
self. S. H. 

Queen of the Isles. (Eckford, 1885.) Crimson scarlet 
striped on a white ground. S. H. 

Queen Victoria. (Eckford, 1897-) A light yellow or prim- 
rose self. H. 

Ramon A.* (Burpee, 1896.) Light pink, striped on a white 

ground. S. H. 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Red Riding Hood.* (Sunset Seed and Plant Co., 1897.) 

Snapdragon form; crimson. 
Regina.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A large maroon self. 



Rising Sun.* (Laxton, 1892.) Standard a bright, rosy 

orange; blush wings. E. 
RoMOLO PiAZZANi. (Eckford, 1905.) A violet blue self of 

large size. S. H. 
Roseate. (Aldersey, 191 2.) Salmon-rose and orange. 
Rose du Barri. (Dickson-Burpee, 191 1.) Salmon-rose 

and coral. 
Rose Queen.** (Stark, 
1905.) A rosy pink 
self. S. H. 
Royal Robe.* (Eckford 
1894.) A light pink 
self. H. 
Royal Rose. (Eckford, 
1894.) Standard crim- 
son pink, deepening at 
center; wings pink. S. 
H. 
Sadie Burpee W. S. 
(Eckford, 1899.) Pure 
white flower of large 
size. H. 
Sadie Burpee B. S. 
(Eckford, 1899.) Pure 
white, the flowers show 
a delicate pink flush in the standard when first opened. 
H. 
Safrano. (Gilbert, 191 1.) Primrose. 

Saint George. (Hurst, 1908.) Scarlet orange self; large 
and very bright; awarded the Silver Medal of the National 
Sweet Pea Society, 1907. A great improvement on Gor- 
geous and Evelyn Byatt. E. 
90 




EcKFORD's "Sadie Burpee. 
Intensely hooded type. 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



Salmon Queen. (Clark, 1910.) Carmine-scarlet. 
Salopian. (Eckford, 1897.) A rich, dark crimson self. 

H. 
Salvation Lassie.* (Burpee, 1902.) Light carmine, the 
standard and wings both hooded like a Salvation Army 
bonnet. 
Sapphire. (Aldersey, 191 2.) Indigo-blue. 
Scarlet Gem. (Eckford, 1904.) Bright scarlet. E. 
Scarlet Striped with White.* (Introducer and date of 
introduction unknown.) One of the old varieties and dis- 
carded some time ago. 
Senator. (Eckford, 1891.) Creamy white ground, striped 

chocolate. H. 
Sensation.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard pink and buff. 

Wings white. S. H. 
Shahzada.* (Eckford, 1897.) Dull maroon, shaded purple. 

S. H. 
Shasta. (Morse, 1905.) When first opening the flowers 
have a creamy tint which changes to an ivory white when 
fully expanded. E. 
Snapdragon.* (Burpee, 1900.) White shaded pink; flow- 
ers are like a Snapdragon bud. 
Speckled Beauty.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose ground, 

marbled with crimson. H. 
Splendid Lilac* (Of German origin, first offered in 1869.) 
Dull purple magenta standard; wings white, tinged lilac. 
E. 
Splendour.* (Eckford, 1887.)- Deep rosy crimson self, 

with slightly paler wings. H. 
Stanley. (Eckford, 1890.) Self colored in darkest maroon 

of burnished tint. E. 
Stella Morse. (Burpee, 1898.) Has a faint tinge of 
pink underlying the cream, producing a true apricot 
shade. H. 
Sue Earl.** (Burpee, 1903.) Standard primrose, with 
mauve edges; wings primrose. H. 
91 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



Sunbeams, Earliest. (Burpee, 1904.) This might be 
described as a primrose "Mont Blanc." The flowers are 
of a rich primrose color and generally borne three on a long 



stem. E. 
Sunproof Salopian. 



(Burpee, 1900.) 




Earliest Sunbeams. 

Early-flowermg type. 



This was the finest 
scarlet until the in- 
troduction of King 
Edward Vll and 
Queen Alexandra. H. 

Sunrise.** (Vaughan, 
1904.) A bright pink 
on primrose ground. 
E. 

Sunset.** (Vaughan, 
1904.) Primrose 
striped dark rose. H. 

Sweet Lavender. 
(Bath, 1910.) White, 
marbled lavender. 

Sybil Eckford. (Eck- 
ford, 1906.) Stand- 
ard creamy buff with 
slight pink or apri- 
cot, large, open, 
creamy wings. E. 

The Bride.* (Lynch, 
1897.) White self. 
S. H. 

The Fairy.** (John- 
son, 1907.) Laven- 
der and white on 
same stem. 
Rosy pink, reflexing stand-. 



The Queen. (Eckford, 1886.) 

ard, shaded with mauve. E. 
Triumph. (Eckford, 1897.) Creamy white ground, 

fused with salmon pink and tinged with carmine. E. 
92 



suf- 



GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES 



True Lavender.** (Bath, 1909.) In color same as Mrs. 
George Higginson, Jr. Standard notched on sides. 

Tweedy Smith.* (Breadmore, 1906.) Standard rose pink; 
wings rose suffused pink. H. 

Unique. (Stark, 1906.) White ground, striped pale lav- 
ender blue. S. H. 

Venus. (Eckford, 1891.) Lovely salmon buff, shaded with 
rosy pink. H. 

Vesuvius.* (Laxton, 1888.) Claret color, shading lighter 
at the edges. E. 

VicoMTE DE Jantze. (Eckford, 1909.) Rose self. 

Violet Queen.* (Carter, 1877.) Clear violet color. E. 

Waverley.* (Eckford, 1892.) Rosy claret standard, blue 
wings. H. 

Wawona.* (Burpee, 1898.) Striped lavender lilac on a 
white ground. H. 

White Snapdragon.* (Burpee, 1902.) White snapdragon- 
like flowers. 

White Wonder. (Burpee, 1904.) The flowers are pure 
white and of largest size and sometimes borne six to eight 
on a long, stout stem, many of the flowers being double. E. 

Xenophon. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) This is a double stand- 
ard form of Phenomenal. 

Yellow Hammer.** (Breadmore, 1909.) Sulphur yellow. 

Zarina.* (Hemus, 1908.) A pearl pink self, being an ex- 
panded form of Queen of Spain. E. 

Zero.** (Hemus, 1907.) An early pure white. E. 

ZoE.** (Biffen-Unwin, 1906.) A clear, shining blue. Sim- 
ilar to Mid Blue. E. 



93 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 



CUPID SWEET PEAS 

This distinct type of dwarf Sweet Peas was intro- 
duced by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. in 1896 and does 
well in dry seasons and on soils which become hard 
during hot weather. The plants are of low, spreading 
habit, with dense green foliage, and attain a height of 
from six to nine inches. The plants root deeply and 
flower most freely in hot, dry seasons. They are also 
adapted for pot culture, but in growing them the 
foliage should never be watered; always water round 
or between the plants. A peculiarity about the Cupids 
is that they are quite devoid of fragrance. 

At one time there was listed fully twenty varieties, 
but now only the following are offered by us: 

Pink Cupid 

White Cupid 

Mixed Cupid 

BURPEE'S BUSH SWEET PEAS 
The plants are semi-erect, fifteen to eighteen inches 
high when in full flower, but branching freely so that 
the close bushes are frequently fifteen inches and more 
in diameter, composed of short erect branches with 
abundant light-green foliage. The tendrils at ends of 
the leaves clasp themselves closely to the adjoining 
branches, so that the whole plant is held quite erect 
though sufficiently open to admit of a freer circulation 
of air than in the low compact form of the Cupid type. 
As these have not met with the success anticipated, 
they have been discarded. We understand in some 
parts of England florists are growing these for cutting 
with larger part of foliage. 

94 




The late Henry Eckford, V. M. H., 
Who died at Wem, England, December 5, 1905, aged 82 years. 
While other men, including his son, are doing good work on the 
sweet pea, it was he alone who blazed the way for others to follow. 
Born in Scotland at Stonehouse, near Edinburgh, on May 17, 1823, 
he began as an apprentice in 183Q in the Gardens of Lord Lovat, 
Beaufort Castle, Inverness. In 1854 he was appointed head gardener 
to the Earl of Radnor at Coleshill, Berkshire, where during his stay 
of twenty years he raised many new dahlias, pelargoniums and 
verbenas. In the year 1870 he accepted the invitation of Dr. Sankey 
to take charge of his gardens at Sandywell, Gloucester, with the view 
of raising new seedlings of florists' flowers. At this time no one had 
thought of any radical improvement in sweet peas and Mr. Eckford's 
magnificent work was begun in 1879. 

As long as the sweet pea is cultivated the name of Henry Eckford 
will be cherished and revered. To few men is it possible to do so 
much for their day and generation. 



95 



TRELLISES 

For those who prefer a trellis, we give illustrations 
of four of the most practical, such as have given entire 
satisfaction at Fordhook Farms. 




Make supports of com- 
mon furring strips, also top 
rail. Set supports eight feet 
apart. For horizontal wires use No. i6 
galvanized. Avoid knotty lumber. Run 
wires from every dot, twenty-six in all. 
Height above ground six feet, and 
twelve inches wide. 



96 



TRELLISES 




Set the supports eight 
feet apart. For horizontal 
wires use about No. i6 gal- 
vanized. Have the lower 
wires come just outside the 
double row of vines. Make 
supports and top rail of 
pine or spruce one and a 
quarter by two and a quarter inches. Height above 
ground six feet, and twelve inches wide at base. 



91 



SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE 




This trellis is made of 
part twine. It has three- 
inch-square posts, and an upper and 
lower frame of furring strips. At each 
end are two perpendicular wires of No. 
10 galvanized, and running lengthwise 
are two horizontal wires of the same. 
The diamond work can be made of 
strong twine, and should be fastened 
both at the middle wire and top and bottom strips. 
Have the rows of vines come inside. Set posts eight 
feet apart. One foot is enough for width. 



TRELLISES 





Made of coarse meshed 
poultry wire. It can 
sometimes be bought 
with seven inch mesh. 
Posts three-inch-square stuff, and top 
and bottom rails as per cut. Set posts 
ten feet apart. Height six feet. It is 
well to run three horizontal wires on 
each side about six inches out to hold 
the mass of vines where they fail to 
fasten securely. 



99 



FOUR "DONTS." 

T-k 'i. expect Sweet Peas to thrive in soil too poor 
for any other culture, or in a sunless location. 
They need, as nearly as possible, a free deep loam, mod- 
erately rich and freely cultivated. 

pv >i sow too shallow. Plant the seed not less 
than two inches deep, and when the plants 
are two or three inches high draw the soil up to them 
in ridge form. 

pv »i overfeed. With a view to obtaining vigor- 
ous growth and profusion of bloom, bone, in 
some form, is the best fertilizer. Nitrate of soda will do 
for a "hurry-up" stimulant, should such be needed; 
but use it sparingly. 

"Hnn'f gather the blooms grudgingly. The more 
you cut the longer the vine will continue to 
flower. Remember, when they go to seed Sweet Peas 
will cease flowering. 



lOO 



Burpee's New Annual 

*'The Leading American Seed Catalog*' 

A bright book, published January 1st of each 
year, is mailed FREE to ^11 who write for it. X^ If 
you have not received it for the current year, or need 
a copy for a friend, please apply either by letter or on 
a postal card. It tells the plain truth about Seeds, 
including rare Novelties which cannot be had else- 
where. Beautiful colored plates and illustrations from 
nature. Gives information of real value to all who 
would raise the choicest Vegetables and most beauti- 
ful Flowers. 

Our Aim 

is to supply not only the *' Best Seeds that Grow,'* 
but to help you in an intelligent selection of varieties 
and also in their successful culture. 

X^It will pay to read the Cultural Leaflets 
offered in BURPEE'S ANNUAL. 



Burp 



ee's "Blue List" 



Our Wholesale Price-List of Seeds in Larger 

Quantities is mailed free on application 

to Market Gardeners and Florists 

If You Plant for Profit ^- '-teuraie"usriuT 

we cannot send it to private planters, even if requested to do so. 



A Useful New Feature '.L^^JKl^^fp^Vii 



BLUE LIST" 

interest 
to growers who plant for profit is the " plain talks " we give in 
every department, as to just the best varieties for different 
purposes. 



Shall we mail you ONE or BOTH Catalogs? 

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. 

Seed Growers Philadelphia, Penna. 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






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,11, 1, nil 1 1 1 1 1 II II 11 II 1 1 II 
000 924 096 2 





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Burpee's 
New Early Flowering \ 
Sweet Pea 

Enchantress 

From a photograph taken at Flora- 
dale Farm. In color similar to the 
late-flowering Hercules. 





W. Atlee Burpee & Co., Philadelphia, U.S.A. 



\ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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HoUinger Corp. 



